You may have blown your points with vigorous filing, but it seems to me that you would not be able to restore them with a little cleaning if that were the case. New trigger points will be expensive >$200.00, but you stand a good chance of getting a decent used set for much less. Do be sure you were actually filing down the point contacts and not the similar-looking, similar-sized rivet located on the bakelite pivot (I ask because I made that mistake).

Anyway, I thought I'd share a little more info on the bench test if you are going to try and narrow things down.

A bench test will tell you if the points are opening correctly when installed in the distributor.

You want to remove the whole dizzy and get a multimeter out. You should measure the resistance between the center and outside pin on the FI harness connector (the three-pin plug on the lower trigger points).

You should read a low level of resistance (not infinite resistance). Still reading the ohms between the two pins, use your third arm to slowly turn the dizzy rotor. When you trigger the lower points, your meter should register the break in circuit continuity as one of the trigger points opens (Ohms should drop to 0). It will return to "normal" as you continue to spin the rotor. Take note the OHMs reading.

Now you want to take a resistance reading between the center pin and the other outboard pin in the connector. Repeat the process and note the resistance value. Also note that the points should "break" with the rotor in the opposite direction. Did that work okay?

If you get no change in the OHMs reading when you spin the rotor, your points are not opening and *that* is (at least part of) your problem. This means they are not being opened by the dizzy cam lobe so two or more of your injectors are not firing.

Now, pull the trigger points and set them on your bench. Repeat the OHM readings on the pins, but this time use your extra hand to *manually* open the points. Do this for both sides of the trigger points and note the values before opening the points (they should be the same as before since the resistance is in the wiring and is not adjustable to my knowledge).

What you want to confirm is that the trigger points are being opened by the distributor cam. The actual values are not as important as confirming that continuity is being broken by the cam lobe on the distributor.

If you got precisely the same readings from manually opening the points as you did when the dizzy opened the points, then they are functioning properly and the problem is not the points installation in the dizzy or the dizzy itself.

If you get a break in continuity when you manually open the points but not when they are installed, your problem is either:

1) the cam lobe is worn and not contacting the trigger points
2) the bakelite parts of the trigger points are worn or broken and are not contacting the cam lobe.

The later is more likely.

It is also possible that the trigger points are just a bit "off" and adjusting them a bit might restore function. This was not my experience, but it is worth checking...

Good luck.