This is a response to a post in my post about replacing brake pads, in which a BB member suggested that (1) never use anti-sieze on wheel studs, and (2) I should clean off the studs on which I used anti-sieze.

Please respond with any information or knowledge or experience you have about the use of anti-sieze.

Your point is accurate, in that when using anti-seize the torque specs are invalidated. E.g. while the torque wrench reads 83Nm the actual holding torque will be less. Rather than pulling the wheels and cleaning the studs, I will re-torque the wheel studs after some 5K to 10K miles, without adding any anti-sieze.

I learned the practice from Nils, the certified Volvo tech who was my go-to guy from 1977 to a few years back when he retired. None of the wheel lugs I have used anti-sieze on for 15 to 20 years of 240's has come loose, maybe I should charge that off to luck.

I know there is a "fudge factor" when using anti-sieze, and I use it when torquing spark plugs following advice from the BB many years ago. The torque wrench reading must be increased by a certain amount or percentage. I checked the details (they're written on the inside of the lid of the box holding my torque wrench) and they say to torque to 15 lb-ft unless using anti-sieze and then go to 18 lb-ft. That looks like a 20% increase. (Numbers are for a 240.)

Thanks for the heads-up, I had forgotten.

Bob

:>)










Select, copy to buffer, and paste anywhere: New rear pads, what about using anti-seize on wheel studs.... 1997 965 189K miles

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New rear pads, what I learned. 1997 965 189K miles 𖛼]󞩽]
posted by B.C. ONLINE on Wed Oct 29 22:25 CST 2008 > V
New rear pads, what I learned. 1997 965 189K miles 𖛼]󞩽]
posted by mk000000001 on Mon Nov 3 12:48 CST 2008 > V
New rear pads, what about using anti-seize on wheel studs.... 1997 965 189K miles 𖛼]󞩽]
posted by B.C. ONLINE on Tue Nov 4 14:12 CST 2008 > V



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