I sat in the car with a 140 wiring diagram and a 122 diagram to try and sort all the wires out this evening. The 140 diagram was particularly troublesome and directed me to wire things up in a way that gave me no power at all...


I could not get the starter to kick over, but that may be because I've not re-attached the engine ground strap or the alternator so perhaps there is no ground for the starter...

Here's what I found out with my multimeter. It largely jives with what Eric says.



30, 30
Gets unfused power from thick black wire from the starter at KP0, I, II, and III. Both spades are energized when power is applied to either. 12-volt AC power (lighter) must go here too...

I've temporarily attached the second, smaller black wire here. It is normally wired up to the same terminal as the larger direct power wire.

I think it is power for the lights, but might be wrong. I've been unable to trace it through the harness... Don't worry, it's coming off soon to avoid burning up my switch. I'll likely just piggy-back it to the big black wire as Eric suggested.

57a
Gets power when key is out or at KP0 *only.*
Power is switched away from 57a as soon as the key goes to KPI. I've no idea what that could be useful for - maybe a ground-switched relay of some some sort? A dead-man switch maybe? It is not mentioned in the wiring diagrams I reviewed.

15
Gets power at KPII and KPIII. Seems to be the wire for the coil. Since this Spring, I don't have my 1800E coil available for this car (it went into the 68 130), but if I did have one, I'd wire the + side here with a thicker gauge red wire...

50
Gets power ONLY at KPIII (Starting). The thin-gauge green wire from the solenoid probably goes here.

75
Gets power at KPI and onward (maybe not at KPIII...). The 140 diagram shows this is power for the radio, but I think Eric is right that this is for fused power. A very thick red wire...