If the car has a Crane Electronic Ignition, why are you messing with a condensor? Isn't the whole idea to get rid of the points and condensor with this system?
Will the Crane system even work if you leave the condensor in?

BTW, a condensor is nothing but a capacitor; condensor is an archaic word for a capacitor in the modern (American) electronics field. There's nothing special about the condensor for the Volvo; it's around .2 to .3 microfarads (uF).

Any condensor that matches the electrical characteristics of the Volvo item, and is capable of being mounted to the side of the distributor so that the bare metal outer shell of the part is being grounded through the body of the distributor, should work.

I suspect the condensor (capacitor) may be oil-filled; and I don't know if it's polarized or not (I doubt it) and it's got a high voltage rating, maybe 600 volts or so? Anyone know?

Better quality modern (digital) multimeters often have a capacitance measuring function built right in, if you feel compelled to check the part.

Condensors (capacitors) have two modes of failure; either they become electrically open internally; or they develop a partial (leaky) or complete short circuit internally.

Of course, if you stuck a leaky or shorted condensor on your distributor with the Crane system, and the electrical connection stud was also being used by the Crane system, you would be shorting whatever voltage was being applied to that point to ground.

If the electrical connection stud (condensor) was being partially or completely shorted to ground because of a failure or incorrect assembly of the phenolic insulating shoulder washers on the distributor, same thing.

Bill