First thing, a chain hoist over a reinforced beam is absolutely wonderful for an engine swap. By raising/lower the engine with the hoist and rolling the car forward and back as needed, I manuevered the B20E and M41 right into the car by myself. The only tricky bit was that I had to remove the back chain as it was hitting the firewall and preventing the motor from seating on the mounts. To get around that, I lowered the motor to the crossmember and jacked up the tranny with a trolley jack. This let me remove the offending chains and roll the whole kabob into the drive tunnel. It worked like a charm and didn't take all that long.

Anyway, a few final questions...

(1) Alternator Issues.
The alternator bolt from my later-style B18 (with ear) does not seem to match the threads of the B20E's alternator ear. This is odd because the bolt and alternator came from a 1975 245 with a B20. It seems like the problem is that the bolt is coarse thread and the ear or fine thread. Does that make any sense?? The B20E is from a 71 1800E...

Also, the bolt the secures the alternator adjustment arm is broken off. I can't get the damn thing out even though there's a 1/4" protruding. It doesn't help that I painted over the thing when I was cleaning up the motor. Is drilling it out my best bet? I really don't want to take a torch to my new engine paintjob.

(2) Temp Sensor
I was leaning towards using the 1800's electric sensor, but I busted off the spade terminal while pulling the motor from the 1800. So, I removed the electric sensor and installed the direct-tube sensor. The electric sensor was pretty short, while the direct tube is at least twice as long. The direct tube bolted in, but why are they so different in length?

(3) Cooling Fan.
The B18 had a plastic 5 blade fan. I originally thought this was an aftermarket part, but it is a true "Volvo" fan. Will the plastic fan keep the B20E as cool as the original metal 5 blade fan from the 1800e?

(4) Manifold Studs.
I coudl not find the torque specs in the volvo greenbook for the manifold studs. I set my torqe wrench to 35 lb-ft and got the accessible nuts very nice and tight. I matched the top three as best as possible. Any more torque and I feared breaking or striping the studs. Is this an okay torque to prevent the exhaust from leaking out?

Also, several of the B20E's studs were missing or bent. I searched the local parts places and had little luck until I hit the local independent/chain hardware stores. I was able to pick up all nine identical studs for prices between .80 and 1.50 each. These were the only 5/16 studs I could locate. The issue here is that the new studs are coarse thread on the shorter block side, but were *all* fine thread on the manifold side. I had to pick up some special grade 8 fine thread nuts and washers. Will these stay tight?

(5) Fuel Pump
I have a newer pierberg pump from volvo. I've had issues with too much fuel and use a pressure regulator to keep the pressure down to spec for my HIF6s. My bakelite spacer is approx. 1/4" thick. Is that the proper thickness for this pump? Will the B20E need more fuel than the old B18?

(6) Lube
what grade and weight of mobil1 should I be using in this motor?
Just what should I put in the M41? I seen a lot of conflicting advice. Greenbook says use motor oil. It looks like there's SAE90 in there already.

Thanks for all the help!