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Not a fan of this site's search engine, so I must confess I didn't try it... But then again, I don't think we've actually talked specifically about the chamber differences between the B20E and B20F heads...
Anyway, my b20B's head in the 68(which is the DD now... *rolls eyes*, the 71 was towed off today, with a check in my hand, YAY!), has slightly worn guides, but massively receeding valves. I don't think it's been 1000 miles yet(although, I must say they have been hard miles) since I did the last adjustment, and I can feel the engine running rougher and rougher. When i did the last adjustment though, the 2nd and 4th cylinders had NO clearance on their exhaust valves. I wouldn't be suprised in the least if they were burnt either, considering how long I had been running with them tight and what not.
Thus, I want to take the 74 b20F head of mine that I was saving for an eventual GOOD headjob, get some new valve guides/seals tossed in it along with maybe a basic valve grind and a shaving for higher compression and tossing it on.
I want to shoot for between 10 and 10.5:1 compression. B20B bottom end, B20E headgasket. I might polish the chamber and exhaust ports a bit, but not really get into modifying the shape of anything as I want to retain that for for the pros at a later time in life. I may consider some very small grooving though... So I may want to not shave too much so that I can get rid of the grooving later. Meh.
Insight?(not on the grooving, just on how much to shave, and whether or not I should bother with a valve grind, other than just replacing the seals/guides by hand, and then spinning the valves in the head to seat them)
Oh, and one more thing. The F head doesn't have the rocker shaft on it right now, there shouldn't be any issues just transplanting the one I have on the b20B head over, correct? Although, the B head is a bit more worn out I think than the F head, and I could probably dig up the F's rockers, but I'd be using the pushrods from the B motor. Bad idea to mix the two because of possibly different wear patterns?
Or... Should I consider opening up the ports a bit just behind the valve heads? Just a little? Maybe just on the exhaust side?
It's a shame I'll still be stuck with a C cam, stock weight flywheel(F motor has a lightened flywheel) and worn out clutch/pressure plate. And the fact that the F block is back in the trunk until I get some friends over here to help me lift it out. The bald, cheapo to begin with 185/70-14s on 240 steelies are scary as hell in the rain with no swaybars on too...
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Kyle - 142, 145, and 244! - Oregon Volvo Tuners?
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