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You will need an "on the car spring compressor". It really is not that tough if you have the tools. Remove the timing belt, valve cover, and cam shaft. Pressurize the cylinder you are working on, remove the valve shim bucket, compress the spring, remove the keepers and the spring, replace the seal, reinstall the spring and keepers, put in your new cushion, reassemble, do it 7 more times and you are done.
The trick is to put enough pressure in the cylinder to keep the valves seated and not enough to push the piston. It is going to have to rotate all 4 pistons and the other 3 holes will have spark plugs in them still so it won't be real easy to turn over. You will want the cylinder you are working on to be on TDC so in the event that a valve unseats it does not drop down into the cylinder. Wouldn't that be a nightmare? Are you familiar with a cylinder leakdown test? It is a tool that you use to pressurize a cylinder at TDC and it has two guages on it. One that shows the amount of pressure going in and one that shows actual pressure in the cylinder. While using this tool you typically run anywhere between 50-100 psi in the cylinder without it pushing it one way or the other. I have had pistons that have actually moved enough to pop open a valve (the cam is in place so it opens the valves) but this is very rare. If you just put in 50 psi or so it should work fine. If you have any doubt just pressurize it before you turn the valve loose.
Torque specs:
Cam bearing caps 15 ft. lbs.
Cam gears 36 ft. lbs.
Mark
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