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I'll answer what I can. The overboost switch in inside over the clutch. It should be changed since what is overboost for a non I/C car is fine for an I/C one. Using the solenoid valve is optional. It prevents the excess boost from coming in until over 3750 rpm. A lot of folks remove it or don't even install it. BTW, the valve is connected to the smaller hole in the i/c pipe which, of course will need to be plugged. The switch on the firewall in the center (may be the one you describe as near the booster) richens the mixture at just a few pounds of boost. I don't think it needs to be changed. The vacuum switch on the brake assembly is for the cruise control. The line over the radiator does go to the wastegate and is where you would install a mbc. The terminal 11 trick is worth doing, details on Turbobricks. A neat trick I learned recently is to use the switch built into early boost gauges to ground term 11. One the back of early gauges are 2 spade connectors. As set up from the factory, it provides a ground to light the TURBO warning light at high boost. It is not part of the fuel cutoff but happens at about the same pressure. Later gauges do not have the switch(or the light). Earlier gauges have switches that close at either 10 psi(non i/c) or 14 psi (i/c). I had to hunt around but I did find an early non i/c gauge that I use to ground term 11 at 10 psi. Works like a champ. A good way to identify the i/c boost gauges is the broader yellow range. I have heard that the switches are not reliable but that's not been my experience. Test with a bicycle pump and multimeter to be sure. As with all boost enhancements, make sure you do not lean out the mixture. A a/f ratio gauge is important.
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'93 850GLT
'83 242TI Flathood
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