The message to which you are about to reply is shown first. GO TO REPLY FORM



 VIEW    REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

rust/metal removaling tool 200

posted by  122 and 940 and too many on  Sun Sep 1 13:13 CST 2002
Author: [PROFILE] [EVERY POST] [THREADS] [BEST POSTS] RSS Feed     [IGNORE ALL POSTS]
last visit: Mon Apr 25 13:12 CST 2011
[RELATED]

I'd be very wary of using structural adhesive, these areas are integral to the crumple zones. Welding isn't that difficult, definitely worth learning.


I've replaced lots of rear arches and spare wheel wells over the years. If you're on a budget buy an angle grinder and decent eye protection. It's much more versatile. I've got a nibbler but rarely use it. An air hacksaw is more useful than a nibbler, but obviously requires a compressor.


If you go the angle grinder route just remember not to wreck the glass in the car.

Regards


Pete






USERNAME
Use "claim to be" below if you don't want to log in.
PASSWORD
I don't have an account. Sign me up.
CLAIM TO BE
Use only if you don't want to login (post anonymously).
ENTER CAPTCHA CODE
This is required for posting anonymously.
OPTIONS notify by email
Available only to user accounts.
SUBJECT
MODEL/YEAR
MESSAGE

DICTIONARY
LABEL(S) +
IMAGE URL *
[IMAGE LIBRARY (UPLOAD/SELECT)]

* = Field is optional.

+ = Enter space delimited labels for this post. An example entry: 240 muffler


©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.