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Thanks to both respondents for your tips. The gob went fairly well. I was glad that I bought new sway bar links. One nut on each of mine was frozen solid so I ended up just twisting thes off. I anticipated this and purchased new rods earlier in the week. By the way, the nuts and washers are seperate, so don't forget to buy them also (four nuts and eight washers). I hope that I didn't over tighten the link bushings. I think I have them a little tighter than you recommend, but not as tight as the rubber bushings I removed. I'll kep an eye on them. I used locktite on all the fasteners. If I had it to do again, I would purchase new bolts to fasten the radius rod to the frame as is recommended in the manual. I might anyway - In the spring when it is warm and sunny.
The only problem I ran into was that I needed an E-18 External Torx Socket (Femal socket) to remove the bolts holding the radius rod to the frame. Fortunately the Auto Parts store had one on the rack. Must not be too popular, because the package was obviously old. The left side came off without too much effort, but the right side was real difficult. I was glad I had decided to run get the socket and not just use vise grips. I don't think that would have worked. I put a two foot breaker bar on the bolt head and a ratchet on the nut. I wedged the breaker bar to the floor and steped on the ratchet to break it loose. This was the first time I had used my home made breaker bar. I cut the "hook" of a wrecking bar and welded the rotating mechanism from a Craftsman 1/2 inch drive ratchet to this end. The other end still functions as a pry bar.
I took my time and completed the job in 3 1/2 to 4 hours not including a hot shower. I feel that it was easy enough to justify the savings compared with $89.00 shop rates. I figure a shop would charge about 2 1/2 to 3 hours labor for both jobs. Probable 1+ hour less if only replacing the radius rod bushings.
Thanks again and good luck to anyone else who wants to give this a go.
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