|
First off, the easy part.
Brake pads do not swell. If you have high metallic content pads and you leave the car parked for a long time in conditions with high humidity or significant temperature changes which causes condensation to form on cold disks the pads will sometimes rust in place on the disks (been there, done that, got the tee shirt). But, that typically does not cause drag rather temporary wheel lock up. What will swell with age are the brake flex lines at each wheel. When you press on the brakes the caliper pistons move into contact with the disks; but, because of the swelling the pressure in the caliper is slow to release with the result that the pads remain pressed against the disk resulting in dragging. If you think the brake flex lines are anywhere close to original they should be replaced.
If the brake hydraulics have never been flushed, the 140 is a bit notorious for accumulating moisture in the rear calipers which leads to the pistons seizing or partially seizing in the calipers. This can cause the pads to drag. You need to check the pistons for movement and complete retraction. If the brake system has never been flushed you probably also need to check the front calipers for pad retraction.
Have you got a service manual for the 140? If not, you should start looking for one.
Until you confirm that you are getting spark do not go messing with the D jet fuel injection. The easiest way to confirm ignition non operation is with a timing light with a magnetic pick up. Connect the timing light up and crank the engine - if the timing light does not flash then you definitely have no spark. If you don't have a timing light purchase or borrow one because that is the only reliable way to set the ignition timing (maximum advance) on these engines.
There are no relays in the ignition system. Go here
https://www.sw-em.com/Wiring_Diagrams_and_Related.htm
and you can find wiring diagrams for the 140. The ignition system is pretty dumb-ass simple. Trace out the wiring as per the diagrams to confirm that the coil is getting +12v power when the key is switched on. If the coil is getting power and you are absolutely sure the ignition coil is good then the problem is likely with the ignition points or the condenser since your tests eliminated the cap and rotor as a cause. Connect a multimeter between the points connection and the chassis to confirm that the points are going open and closed as you rotate the engine.
If you can get the ignition system operating and correctly timed and it still does not run, then you can check the D jet system. Go here and down load the D jet fault tracing manual
https://volvo1800pictures.com/wordpress/misc-documents/#19
It will tell you everything you need to know about how to troubleshoot the D jet system. The people who carp about the D jet are the people who don't bother to take the time to understand how it works. Properly maintained it is definitely more reliable and consistent that SU carbs. The common failure point for the D jet system is wiring failure (and the mechanical auxiliary air valve). The insulation that Volvo used on the D jet wiring harness had a short life at elevated temperatures. At about 7-8 years the insulation starts to harden and becomes brittle and will break and fall off if disturbed leading to connection failures and short circuits. As a first step, carefully examine the wiring at the injectors, the coolant temperature sensor, the throttle switch, the air temperature sensor and the trigger points on the distributor. Chances are that the insulation has already fallen off leaving exposed conductors and the actual electrical plugs may have problems.
Ron K has a lot of useful information on the D jet system
https://www.sw-em.com/bosch_d-jetronic_injection.htm
|
