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As long as I'm thinking about it, and as I may not be following your next reply, if the coil with the internal power stage checks out (please do that first), then double check that you have a good strong spark from each plug against the block. Do it in the dark to see how strong it is. Double check the plug tips for an approx .028" gap (.025"-.030").
If that all checks out then you need to go back and re-think the fuel side.
You said you've got decent fuel pressure, which I presume means you got a squirt of gas at the Schrader valve. That still leaves the issue of adequate fuel pressure and delivery.
Start by making sure you can hear the in-tank main pump running when you crank with the gas cap off, listening down with a tube if needed. I'm not sure if Regina spins up the pump for a moment when you turn the ignition key into the On position (KP-II) the way the LH systems do, so you can try listening for that first in a quiet environment without needing to listen down the filler neck. If you hear the pump buzz for a moment then you can assume the fuel pump is okay.
Next check for injector operation and worry about fuel pressure and delivery last.
There's an easy and simple way to check that the injectors are being operated. There's an OBD test you can perform at the diagnostic socket to confirm injector operation, which would remove the ECU and injectors from the equation.
Perform Diagnostic Test Mode 3 (DTM 3) at ECU port 2 (socket 2 in the "A" block) as described here in the FAQ:
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm#FuelInjectionandIgnitionDiagnosticCodesi
The injectors (tic-tick), electric fan (low/high) and idle control valve (tick-tock) and vapour solenoid valve if present (faint ticks) will be continually operated in a cycle until the test is stopped. Put your hand on each injector to confirm the ticking injector and that the ticks are more or less uniform between injectors. If that checks out then after some cranking, pull each plug to check for evidence of fuel, either wet plug or smell of gas through a tube.
If your socket has connector issues such as you suggest and the LED won't function when the button is pressed then you may need a bridge between deep in the socket and the probe or else repairing the probe wire connection, bypassing the block to the connector wire underneath.
To confirm adequate fuel pressure, you can crudely do it with a tire gauge at the Schrader valve -don't use an expensive gauge and dry it thoroughly afterward. Anything over around 30 psi should be okay. Best to do it after a bit of cranking so you're not just measuring residual line pressure.
Somewhere in all the advice you've been given should be evidence of the likely problem.
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now
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