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How many of these parts do you have? What drives the car around at the moment?
I would NOT buy the first version of a 123, it is relatively useless.
Although D-Jet produces more power & economy compared to most carburettors systems seen on various cars, it's actual intent was for meeting USA emissions standards, specifically on a Type 3 VW.
It's also important to note that the B20E/F intake manifold was designed to fit under the bonnet & look good in a P1800E engine bay. It is actually too short & too large in diameter & is a long way short of what a pair of 45DCOE or an ITB system can deliver. (O2 meters give you a very good answer for AFR W/W but not V/V)
What is a 'Flowed head'?
What is a 'Street performance cam'?
If you have the $$$$$ for 'NOS Bosch fuel injectors', then you would buy modern ones of the correct size, ITBs, the good Twin DCOE manifold & your preffered ECU, etc.
Upping the fuel pressure on D-Jet doesn't work like you think either because it sprays directly on the backs of the intake valves. The fuel vaporizes which greatly increases the area it takes up, but that leaves less space for air. (Did I mention it was built for Emissions?) That's why the injector is moved back on a performance injection system.
B20F(xx034) vs B20E(xx017) ECU's: There is no B20F specific ECU.
0 280 000 009 is for 1970 models, 017 is is for 1971, 034 is for 1972 & 1973, and for general interest 0 280 001 009 is for 1971 to 1975 B30E/F powered cars.
I wouldn't buy a K&N air filter for it either because the original filter is HUGE. I had an early model 140 running K-Jet for more than a decade & if the rodents have not eaten it, I would still use the original aircleaner.
If I had a 2nd K-Jet system for spares, I would build a decent intake manifold to go with it. I have several K-Jet systems from B21E's, but the injectors & metering head are not interchangeable.
To sum up, if you only want B20E power, then twin SU's will get you there. I made a .0625" OS B20B with low compression slaughter a D-Jet B20E car, so even going to +.125" and the hassle of having to source bigbore headgaskets & the problem of no OS after +.125". I know some people go to 92.5mm BUT I wouldn't, atleast not in a conventional way. Not all blocks got to the bigbore size successfully.
If you want serious performance, the cylinder head is the heart of the engine. Finding someone to do it for you is hard. It sounds like you need someone to built it & tune it too.
Most people don't know that the stock B20A/B head is a better choice with cams of less than .25D lift such as all the stock ones & VV-71 Isky that ipd also sells. The inlet ports the B30A/E/F has are 1st choice for a daily driver with a cam that has .280" lobe lift, which is around .400" valve lift (less than .25D)
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