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Most likely your 'Big Bore' is one made of IPD bits, the cam would be Isky's VV71, .020" tappets cold is 1st thing. Does it have dual springs?
Compression test next & check ignition timing runs from 10° @ idle & runs to 32° maximum (around 3500rpm)
Next, see if the idle mixture knob on the back of the ECU does anything. 32psi would make it fairly useless.
The MPS, take the hose off & check it for cracks, the stick it back on the MPS, suck on it & see if it leaks.
Does the MPS still have the epoxy bung on it's end untampered with? This is three way adjustable before the end is covered in epoxy & the place to get extra fuel for full throttle & also the place to lean out the cruise mixture.
The 'TPS', is it set properly?
The D-Jet system is actually fairly simple, but is limited to 30% more fuel with MPS adjustment.
Also, Increasing the fuel pressure doesn't work well for suppling more fuel because the injector sprays on the back of the HOT intake valve & vaporizes. This is great for emissions, which was the whole point of D-Jet, BUT, vaporized fuel take up a large amount of space limiting how much air/fuel goes in the cylinder.....
Back to tappets, do one at a time. When you see inlet valve 4 go full lift adjust inlet 1, etc. This is the 2nd most accurate way & you get to see if a lobe is worn badly (It's visually obvious)
Oil leaks: There is nothing wrong with the stock gaskets. They leak firstly because people overtighten them down. 2nd, the oil cap area gives up a bit over time. Both can be panel beated back again. I paint my things with regular old enamel & a brush. The engine heat bakes it on fine. It's well worth painting the crank pully black too, bake that in the oven, then put some liquid paper on 0, 10, 20, 30 & 35° lines. When setting the timing make sure maximum is between 30 & 35° when you give it a quick flick up to 3500-4500rpm. I feel that even with IPD's 'Big' cam, it should idle smoothly at stock idle with 10° BTDC.
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