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HIYA UNCLE OLD DUKE!!!
Glad, pleased, and grateful to see and hear you're back from Tobacco Road under the stinking creek to see you're back from from the war against all for them shysters selling you the wrong water pump for as much as all the gold and silver absent from Fort Knox!!!
Other than a R & R with your 1992 Volvo 240 Wagon water pump, I hope and trust you, your pals, family, and everybody are safe, happy and healthy.
As Uncle Pork Face says!
Use the Volvo seals and gasket! Or maybe Victor-Reinz? I forget who makes the gasket and two seals for Volvo. I did not know Graf made water pumps anymore for our 1992 240s.
I use a clear silicon grease, like SuperLube NLGI 2 from DoIt best or other places, for the gasket and both seals.
As Uncle Pork Face says
- Observe any corrosion. If a pitted block mounting surface you may want to use a slow curing RTV. Most of the RTV has a short working time.
- If the heater core return pipe in the exhaust side is pitted, use an emery cloth to remove like corrosion. If the end is chewed through by a junkyard dog, you may want to find a replacement.
- With grease or sealant or one or both or opposite sides (with some cure time as Pork Face directs for the RTV) yet use some grease on the top seal and the heater return pipe seal, slide the pump on the studs and start the nuts on the studs. You want a small gap so the pump can move for the lever up option.
- You or your assistant will lever up the pump to the pint you can thread the mounting machine bolts. I've also used a section of wooden broom handle, 2" or maybe smaller steel pipe, or a 2 foot or longer breaker, yet I forget where the pivot point is. Lift and hold compressing the top seal, start the machine bolts, and get to a snug state, and as Uncle Pork Face says, tighten in a star pattern as Uncle Pork Face indicates.
I also have the 1997 Haynes Volvo 240 manual instructions I'll record top the BrickPix (if I can if it works today - Jarrod is working on it). Instructions in the 1997 Haynes Volvo 240 Service Manual. I'll have to send that to by email as it is copyright information. Sorry.
Yet also, you have the 700-900 Series FAQ procedure here (copy and paste link into new browser tap or window).
Cooling
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/Cooling.htm
Changing a Volvo B230F Water Pump
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/WaterPumpChange.htm
Use a 50%/50% mix of anti freeze and distilled water. Green phosphate free Prestone, Pentosin PentaFrost NF concentrate, Zerex G0-5 or G-48. Contains some silicates to slow or halt the tin loss in the tin / lead heater core solder welds.
Also, if over ten years old, consider a new coolant thermostat.
When your drain your cooling system, you may want to remove the radiator. You inspect through the lower large cooled coolant out port and with adequate light look at the end of the horizontal tubes. If you see they are clogged, you may be able to have a radiator shop boil out the mineral precipitate. Yet if it a plastic side tank radiator, consider the age if over seven or ten years as the plastic side tanks weaken with pressure and heat cycles.
FCP Euro is closer to you as they are in Rhode Island.
There exist many videos on this task on YouToobBube:
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=volvo+240+water+pump+replacement
Hope that halps you!
Happy Sundae!
Buttermilk and instant potato boy.
--
Beh.
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©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.
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