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I tried one. The instructions are, basically, heat the flange with a torch until you can pull the old element out. Mine needed to be heated with a propane torch much longer than I would have thought. Eventually I got out the old element. There was a bunch of crud between the old element and the valve slide, and the valve slide needed to be un-stuck as well, requiring more work with the torch. Eventually I had the whole thing dissembled.
The element was then glued into a flat cylindrical housing with high-temp sealant (the ring you can see at the base of the assembly), and then this was glued into the flange with Loctite 638. This reassembly went pretty smoothly.
On installing the renewed AAV into my car, I noticed the engine idled very high when started the engine. I checked the specs, and according to the service manual, the AAV valve should be fully open at -25C and fully closed at 60C. The seller's eBay listing said his would be fully closed at 55C. When I sent him a message to say that my AAV valve probably shouldn't be fully open at room temperature, he said that his elements were designed to be fully open at +25C and closed at 55C.
Now, this is my first time installing a new AAV valve in a B20F, so maybe I did something wrong when I readjusted my idle speed, but it seems like the elements he's selling don't really match with the specifications of the ones that were originally made for the B20F.
On top of that, it looks like you can get the same thing (marked as -30 degrees) on Amazon for $21 bucks -
https://smile.amazon.com/MAHLE-ORIGINAL-TX10330-Thermostat-Insert/dp/B00DQ8NAWS/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1550185086&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Mahle+Behr+0012039575
I ordered one of the Amazon ones, I'll see how it goes!
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