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Hi,
I agree with you it is not a rest pressure issue. At those pressures, the volume is there.
I was going to suggest turning on the ignition switch to position two a couple of times before cranking the engine to start it. This would fill the lines up first. No need if you are holding pressure.
I’m not so sure that the two to three second delay in starting is so bad but I might be use to that though!
As I think through the system operations, it takes a second to get the CPS signals processed through the ECU & ICU. After that the pump and injector relay has to close. It’s at the end of the chain.
So with that said, you are feeling the engine has chugged through a hit, it’s has fired! When it doesn’t catch right on, with that “ tick over” into a quick up and running motor ... what could be wrong? Oh! Wait, you want us to think about it. OoooKkk?
Past the first second, it might be written off too the nature of the four cylinder beast.
When an engine is ever stopped all the pistons can be mid-way in their individual strokes! It’s a fact!
A piston equalizes against a compression and it’s own inertia that includes the flywheel. The actual stopping location varies with the number of cylinders of an engine.
It’s also a fact that an engine can back up a little bit upon stopping. More so with smaller engine due to the lack of internal friction.
Good reason to keep that timing belt tension adjusted regularly.
The first cylinder firing might be lost to a low piston speed to create enough compression. Consequently ending up with an incompletely burned fuel charge!
The engine now has got to move another 90 degrees of rotation all on the starter motors capabilities.
Hmmm hold that thought!
The first hit was there except for speed of the piston and from where it started out as discussed earlier.
By the second hit, 90 degrees later, this will surely be lots better as some ideal conditions are coming up to speed or in-line as a four cylinder engine is!
By the third hit, it is going to really good and starting to chug over. Now we know it’s going with some real speed as the speed is up that it’s at or just above the starters speed.
How much time it takes for all of this, you got me, but I can tell it’s going to catch. It’s then I might be thinking I will let go off the start mode of the switch. So now where are we, two seconds?
I personally think, that the Chevy cars and trucks start up faster than most any other vehicles.
That is, if they are at least a six cylinder or higher in piston numbers.
Their fuel management systems have always provided the best start method to get fuel and HEI spark, it seems, together.
I know that our Volvo’s are not as fast as them. Trust me, my old Harley, with only two cylinders, firing on those odd degrees of rotations, is about as slow as one can get. It’s almost a two single cylinder engines in one frame.
A Harley can give you new meaning to the term of “chugging” over! It’s more like saying, potato potato when it’s idling smooth! A potato farmers tractor engine. (:-)
So, with lack of anything conclusive, we are dealing with speed. Battery current is flowing or is it deficient? I suggest you study the starting circuit closer.
Those clip on ammeters work well to help diagnose excessive starter motor current or the lack of current being used.
Do readings of voltage and current flow “trending” when cold, warm and hot with a timer, I guess?
There might be such a current draw that it “temporarily” draws power from the other sensitive electronics?
There could be some cable(s) or a battery issue to start with. No pun intended!
Batteries can be surprisingly weird with temperature change.
Have you checked for anything related to the ignition like the component behind the battery.
There might be weak connections to it.
It’s like a relay that powers the ignition coil on and off per the ICU.
So, inspecting the color of the spark during cranking might give a lead.
Pull the coil wire and test it to a good ground. I like the strut towers studs, as I can see it from the drivers seat. Blueish with the length of the thickness of the spark cables is good.
Note,
If you remove the grounding wire to the injectors or unplug them, you will not flood the cylinders while testing for deficient spark arc and current draw of the starter.
I admit I’m with you!
Sometimes, for what ever reason, my 1984 kicks over in a blink. This is more so in the mornings, but not every time.
Then times come it cranks like the rest of my fleet of six!
It’s all that I can suggest short of saying, “It’s the nature of the beast.”
I get a little shaking, like from my dogs and they’re ready to go!
(-:)
Phil
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