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Hiya walczyk,
How many miles?
And you checked the transmission fluid in your AW-7x xx? How does it look. Confirmation as to the Tanx-Giving Day Turkey Gravy in them receptacles!!!!
I do like me a great gravy with me biscuits. Ha!
I'd futzed with the sort of feeble upper radiator supports that are long for the intercooler and the coolant radiator. They really kind of suck, yet the RWD section on the brickboard has solutions that I've read here. I'm a 240 and owlder direct experience person, however. Salt grains, please.
Waaaaaat? Oil light is on? Huh? And you continue to drive it? I dunno the oil switch threshold, yet I believe it is no more than 1 Bar (15 PSI) or maybe .5 Bar
When does the oil pressure light come on? Oil loss exterior to the engine, or engine smokes a blue-grey when cold, or steam that smells of coolant when first starting? Of you may have failed seals at the oil pump tube? A faulty oil pump, relief spring (doubtful).
This is not some Ford 351 Cleveland or Windsor. You have to separate the transmission from the engine block, the flywheel and works, and then at the engine back end is the rear main bearing seal in the rear main bearing seal carrier. So, you will need a seal press that fits. You may also want to pull the rear main seal carrier plate, an aluminum plate, and clean mating surfaces and replace the gasket. There is a similar plate at the front of these engines called the (from OHV era when Volvos engines were engines and had OHV) timing plate. It carries the front main crank seal and the intermediate (oil pump and distributor) cam seal. To remove these, you need some manner of counterhold tool to hold the front harmonic oscillater balancer crank pulley. The same goes for the two timing belt camshaft gears. Ditto on the seal press. You ain't gonna get the seal in straight with your fingers or a piece of wood. Be mindful of a groove on the inner sealing surface from the prior seal position. Use Volvo seals or Viton? I forget th brand of choice.
The timing belt you use is a round cog tooth (I believe) timing belt on 1993 and newer. Conti-tech makes OEM quality t-belts. Use the INA brand tensioner every 100k miles. Round cog belts are 100k mile belts. The square tooth belts (up to 1992?) are 50k belts. One a new belt, reset tension the first 100, 500, 1000 miles or so as they stretch on run-in.
Research the best sources of cylinder head gasket and other gaskets. I forget, yet this brickboard forum and turbobricks is replete with debates on the subject, and, iirc, there is consensus on the best gaskets, seals, and belts, and methods to use.
With low oil pressure, I worry of low end wear. You may want to check the oil filter in a tear down of ferrous metal bits on the interior side of the filter.
Research machine shops for quality head work. The head will need pressure testing and measurement. You may or may not need valve guides replaced. If you can get quality replacements any more. No valve guide knurling. Its BS. New valve guide seals. And proper shimming with new hushers from the dealer.
Have you performed a compression test at any time? Do you know compression is good and even on all four cylinders?
You could have a faulty oil pressure switch, though doubful. I worry the engine bottom end? How long does the oil light issues persist for you? When does it happen? Hos often did you change oil? What oil and filter do you use?
How many miles?
See about special Volvo tools you may need from a Volvo Penta (Marine) shop if near the ocean or great lakes or wherever maritime environment power boating occurs. Hopes they rent.
Also, the turbobricks may also help you, or last direct you to guidances useful to you.
Does that help?
Please see the: https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/
(Click FAQ at the of every brickboard page)
Pork Chop Boy, yet again.
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