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Hi Bob,
Veteran of over a hundred motor mount replacements, pretty quick now, but there are definitely a few tips.
First, you will save a huge amount of hassle and delay by removing your alternator and its bracket. You don't have to pull the alternator out, so the wires don't need to come off, but disconnect your battery, unbolt the alternator and suspend it from above. Take the bracket off the block and remove the oil filter.
Now the change! I do NOT recommend doing both mounts at the same time. Loosen the D Side crossmember nuts but do not remove them. Remove the P side nuts. Use your jack to carefully raise the engine, but you don't need to get the bolts clear of the crossmember. An inch or so will do. Then unbolt it from the block. A ratcheting box wrench is very handy for the front bolt. Use an air ratchet with swivel and extension on the other two, from underneath, and zip! Lift it clear of the crossmember.
When reassembling the PS on the bench, don't forget to put the front block bolt in before you finish assembling the biscuit and brackets. Though it may clear your old, squooshed biscuit, it won't clear most new ones, put it into the top bracket while it's apart.
Once assembled, lower it into the crossmember and bolt it to the block. Put the nuts on just a few threads. On the DS, I get to all three bolts with the air ratchet and a swivel, no extension, from under the car, behind the crossmember. Don't have to remove anything to do it. Block bolts are not all the same length on most cars I've done, so take care. I think the front one is the short one.
Don't overtorque the block bolts, and remember not to let your jack act directly on the drain plug in your oil pan. Use something to spread the load to the pan evenly, or better yet, something across the fender ledges that allows you to raise the engine from above. I think there's a picture on Art's site of something like that.
My experience is that if you completely remove both mounts, unless you have been able to keep the engine in perfect alignment in respect to the crossmember, it moves. Then getting it back in the right place to get the first mount started is a pain, requiring levers and lots of grunting. Doing one at a time maintains alignment and saves a lot of aggravation.
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