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Garaging a Volvo for 6 months 200

Excellent suggestions.

May not hurt to spray a can of white lithium grease, or heavy white lithium grease into all body hinges and latch catches. You know, the bonnet and boot lids, all doors.

If are not going away from your 1990 Volvo with M47 II manual transmission and have some time, you may want to take some time for a deeper than usual inspection and diagnosis of odds and ends.

If you mean not to run the engine at all or hand-turn the engine, you may want to remove the spark plugs and give it a cylinder lubricant, turn, and spray again. I forget, yet there exist some rather thick specialty spray lubes you spray into the cylinders to halt corrosion of the rings and cylinder walls.

You may want to run the engine, yet the draw back is that if you run the engine for a few minutes, you may draw moisture into the oil sump chamber (anywhere oil returns under low pressure or resides, like in the oil sump [pan]). You want to keep the engine interior dry.

How is the coolant and cooling system? How long has it been since you changed the coolant? Do not use orange color coolant in that redblock engine. I hope you are certain the coolant was mixed with good anti-freeze and and at least distilled, demineralized, or deionized water. Or a 50/50 coolant mix.

If you have some time it may not hurt to take some time for rust investigation. Under the carpet (maybe pull the seats). If roof rack, try and get into the big plastic plugs along the rear rocker panel for rust.

You may want to pull out the inner door panels and inspect the door interior for rust, inspect and lube the door handle and window lift assemblies. Clear the drains at the door bottom edge of any gunk. Inspect the metal seems in case the paint is cracked. You may want to replace the exterior window scrapers with the newer type made from (poron or ???) from iPd or R-Sport International.

You may want to pull up the cargo-area deck and remove the metal access plate in the metal floor that is directly over the fuel sending unit. Check for rust and filth and so on.

You can take the carpet to the self-service car wash and spray it clean and hang dry. Replace or keep the padding / sound deadening. It'll smell much better!

Maybe want to consider some upholstery work with the seat spring and lumbar support. Wash the (cloth?) seat cover by hand with detergent and, when dry, use that stain proofing stuff you spray on in several light coats (let dry). You can repair damage top the bun warmer grid.

May want lift your fabulous, if durable 1990 240 DL wagon onto axle stands. Anchor or set the lifted vehicle on the four jacking points.

Spend some time investigating the running gear, undercoating, rust, and other bit you may want to service.

If you give it a rest for six months, this may be a great opportunity for you to slowly and carefully, and in brief periods, inspect, diagnose, and remediate or plan to repair items in need or service.

Maybe want to take some time and give the clutch cable an inspect and clean and lube with grease.

Maybe want to inspect them rear wheel hub assemblies: parking brake pads and rear wheel bearings. A bear of a task. See whether the seals that separate the differential oil from the rear wheel bearing grease chamber as failed, as well as inspect, and (hopefully you need not to) replace the rear wheel bearings and races. You big blue (cheese) Bentley 240 bible service manual helps.

Maybe install some stereo upgrades using junkyard pulled parts and pieces?

Your OvLov will thank you.

Hope that helps.

MacDuffy's Stilton Cheese.
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