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I've not checked timing yet, but I did loosen the t-belt tensioner to re-tension the new belt. This didn't help resolve the problem or change the characteristics in any way. I will be re-doing the timing so that I can put on my stock cam sprocket to set the new VX cam to zero. Interestingly, I changed the rear plastic timing belt cover (I think it was either Uro or Scan-Tech brand... ugh!) and it came with no alignment marks for the cam or the layshaft. I did my best to scribe them in by comparing to the old rear cover, but who can say for sure if I got it right? I did fortunately use a nice new Continental T-belt which has the nice white stripes and I did verify that everything was set properly. Well, we'll see what the timing is after I put on the orig cam sprocket.
And I do agree that changing a whole hoard of parts introduces the unknown to the situation. I'm effectively testing out all these new parts now! I did pay the extra premium to get the closest to OEM on everything (Bosch and Bougicord etc.) but I realize everything has slipped in quality. The only one I'm worried about is the crank angle sensor since it's a pain to get at with the cyl head on, but the misfire happens at a light load, off-idle so I think a bad crank angle sensor is a long-shot.
Dan, all the spares that I swapped in were known good parts that I had on the car previously. On the AMM, I've ordered another used one from ebay. I've cleaned the harness contacts on both of these and I've used MAF cleaner spray to clean the element - same problem persists. No known air leaks between the AMM and throttle plate. I swapped in a new main air tube/hose. The intake and throttle body were "anti-septically" cleaned during my cyl head job. Disconnecting the idle air motor had no effect on the problem. I did remove the throttle switch (pseudo-TPS) when I cleaned the throttle body. It makes me wonder if there is an air leak around the throttle shaft? I've got another throttle body I can try. No OBD codes have been stored.
thanks!
Steve
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