|
I also have a 1992 240 GL. A well neglected wee beastie. I'm still bringing the beastie back to a more proper operating condition. Prior owners have abused the poor wee beastie. I felt sorry for it and got it for nothing. I had to replace the windshield. The air and water stay out, yet it is the worst looking job, using a damned Pilkington brand piece of soft made in China crap glass I've ever used. All prior windshield installs I've performed were using OEM glass windshield kits like SEKURIT, SCANEX, and SUNEX.
If you or someone has such skill, you may be able to remove and replace the butyl rubber gasket under the left (driver side North America) lower corner that has failed.
If you have the original Volvo 240 windshield, you may be able to lift up the flush mount reveal (apron) secured to the plastic frame around the glass. You have to be careful doing this.
What brand glass do you have? Does it say Volvo at the lower right (passenger side)? Brands can include SEKURIT (by Saint-Gobain) SCANEX, or maybe SUNEX? Doubtful it is Trempex. If it says any other brand and made in USA or China, your windshield is a replacement.
If your windshield is a replacement, more than likely it is adhered in the windshield pan using a urethane adhesive. Not so serviceable. Yet you could make use of a judicious adhesive sealant like very small amounts of gorilla glue or maybe an outgassing adhesive like Goop Marine, RV, or Auto. Like butyl rubber, urethane windshield adhesive can be black yet, more recently, can be pink, light blue, and a host of other colors.
You may want to take the car to a high pressure self service car wash and force out the years of bio-crap accumulation under the flush mount reveal (apron). Spray along the pillars and top and bottom to force water between the apron and the painted surface. Spray into the seam between the glass and trim edge. Bio crap should come out. You want the windshield pan to be clear of this crap so it quickly dries.
The years of bio-crap collected at both lower corners of the windshield pan (the recess the windshield gasket and glass windshield rest in) has a deleterious effect on the butyl rubber. More so, a small drain hole, one at some inches from either corner, exists to drain the bottom of the windshield pan (along the length parallel to the windshield glass). Bio-crap build up collects. Moisture persists for days after any rain or a car wash. The wet condition can cause rust and can be a very expensive repair to have done at a body shop or a very enduring repair you do yourself.
You can try, then, to lift the flush mount reveal (apron). If secured with a black matter, it is butyl rubber. Butyl rubber suffers from outdoor storage under tannin producing foliage (like Oak trees). You may be able to scoop out the brittle and aged butyl rubber in either direction from the leaking section until it is sticky and pliable again. Clean the area under the glass using a residue-free solvent like brake parts cleaner. Then fill the void using butyl rubber tape (bead) or more easily use butyl rubber from a caulk gun.
Questions?
Comments?
Suggestions?
Well wishes?
I'm Going to Go Get Some Buttermilk.
|
