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Yes you could have a short somewhere but first check the top right hand tag on your fuse box. This often becomes loose on its rivit. It then makes a poor connection to that end of the fuse as well as becoming a high resistance joint. Actual fuse contact area is very small and rolling the fuses can cut the end off the fuse material which leaves you with a very dodgy connection. The link to fuse #2 then also becomes a high resistance joint, bad electrically, so doesn't flow the juice well. All of the items you mention take their power from the 25 amp fuse so you give it more work to do as you switch them on. Even if it doesn't seem loose its a good idea to take it off the car, clean it all up and thoroughly degrease. Flow some solder around this joint. Some liquid flux is good to help the colder flow between the 2 sections. Fuse #2 takes it's power from here via the link so it will help that one too. Solder flow all other rivits. Soldering both sides of the 25 amp fuse usually reduces the "red light problem" to virtually nil.
Pics at Ron Kwas site here http://www.sw-em.com/gastight.htm
You can make up a modern 25 amp inline fuse with 2 sort links to connect across the outside of the fuse box for permanent or emergency use if you wish.
Wipers, heater fan, washers, winkers,charge, oil pressure, fuel and OD are on the 25 amp fuse.
Don't try giving the rivit a whack with a hammer and punch. You'll likely fracture the plastic. Done that..............
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