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Wheel bearing replacement gone horribly wrong 200 1990

About a month ago, I got a howling/grinding/whining noise from the front passenger side wheel, so I decided to replace the bearings - even if they weren't to blame for the noise, at least they would be replaced (car has 105,000 on it and the bearings were never replaced in the life of the car.)

Anyway, managed to successfully drive out the old races and press new ones in. Got the parts at autozone, Timken brand races/bearings.

I packed the bearings in Castrol multipurpose wheel grease, and following the Haynes manual, assembled the hub back on the spindle.

I tightened the castle nut gradually to 20 ft/lbs, spinning the hub all the while to seat everything in. At the final torque, the hub took some effort to rotate, and wouldn't spin freely on it's own (not sure if that's good or bad - I might have put too much grease in there).

I then inserted the cotter pin, dust cap, and began to reattach the brake caliper (I had hung it out of the way with a wire earlier).

However, after reattaching/torquing the brake caliper, its now firmly grinding into the rotor and the hub can't rotate at all.

I have a few remaining questions after this fiasco:

Did I miss a crucial step when reinstalling the brake caliper? (They are Girling)

Should the hub (with the new bearings installed/greased) rotate effortlessly, or does it need some small effort for it to rotate?

I am an electrical engineering student in Boston, and not as familiar with the mechanical side of things like you guys are - any response would REALLY be appreciated.






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New Wheel bearing replacement gone horribly wrong [200][1990]
posted by  someone claiming to be Frustrated engineering student  on Mon Jan 19 11:49 CST 2004 >


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