Man, do I need an oxy torch!! Typical tale:

I decided over the weekend to change the ball joints and front bushings in my 90 745, a decision brought forth by the goat track quality of our roads here in Iowa. Remove wheels, pull control arms, press in new bushings at local shop, change ball joints, change sway bar bushings: not too hard. Much grunting due to stuck bolts, but I thank my stars I have a 24 inch breaker bar.

Then I discover two problems: a weeping power steering pressure hose (easy change once I get the part) and cut boots on both tie rod ends. OK, time to change the rod ends. One comes off in no time. The other has obviously been heated before, but I have at it. IT WILL NOT COME OFF THE INNER TIE ROD. No amount of PBlaster, heating with a propane torch, banging and knocking, will remove either the lock nut or the tie rod end. Somebody clearly heated it before during an alignment, then locked it up with no anti-seize. And it has certainly seized. Bitch!

So I am now going over to NAPA to get a new inner tie rod, the better to just chuck it all out and start from scratch with new, rust-free parts. Question: has anyone removed the inner rod from a CamGear (TRW) rack without removing the rack from the car? It looks easy: pull back the boot, unscrew the holding nut, and pull the inner rod ball joint out. But the entire job looked easy until I burrowed into it. Thoughts?