I'm seriously looking at an '84 240 GL and on verge of buying but...
I will have mechanic check it out but he was out of town Friday so have to wait 'til next week. (FYI my mechanic isn't an import or Volvo specialist).
Mileage: 186,948 and speedometer is working :) I think on its 3rd owner. It has been sitting 2 or 3 years but when new battery was put in 7-10 days ago, it started :)
Needs to be repainted.
Needs tires.
Sunroof doesn't work. (How to fix??) I don't know if it leaks.
Fog lights broken. When I turn them on, right side light is visible, left side is not. Hoping I can replace bulb (left) and lens covers (both) to resolve.
Original upholstery (so I'll need to reupholster, at some point.)
Heated seat (driver seat) doesn't work. Lumbar support needs to be replaced (so I'm guessing I'll need to replace all springs and grid.) Is passenger seat heated in this car as well??
Driver side map pocket is broken and needs to be replaced.
Parking brake console, really broken! (I'm not sure parking brake 'works' and not sure which switches are in there.)
Dash - really cracked and will have to be replaced. Glove box - lock , is 'chingered' and really hard to turn (lock) knob and face of glove box is broken. (I can replace just glove box?? IF I can find one!)
Rear deck, (vinyl) speaker covers are broken and speakers have been moved. So I will need to replace deck.
Cigarette lighter is absent. (I don't care about cigarette lighter but I DO care if socket works!) Guess I'll have to buy a cigarette lighter to be able to check it? (I need to be able to use GPS.)
Turn signal switch is kind of 'hanging' from steering column, it's not in straight and centered. The right blinker works; the emergency flasher and lights work, the left blinker does not. COMPLICATED by the fact (to me, the noooobeeee) that the cruise control, instead of being part of the turn signal switch, has been added separately. In looking at parts and prices, I see Turn signal switch without cruise PN114791, OE, $88; OR Turn signal switch WITH cruise, PN 114790, OE, $66. Now I would PREFER to have cruise in the turn signal switch (or would I??) Now that it's been installed as 2 separate switches, will it be difficult to go back to all in the column switch? (BTW I don't know if currently installed cruise control works...)
Power windows: since I was told there are problems (one goes up, not down; another goes down, not up) I did NOT even try to operate. They had both front windows down when I took it, and I returned it same way :) But - I'm guessing I'll need to (or should) replace all 7 switches?
Front grille is 'loose' on one side.
Windshield wipers seem to function at ONLY one speed. (As I recall there is wiper fluid in reservoir but it doesn't/won't spray on windshield - so I'm thinking this is a different and separate issue from wipers working at just one speed.) Switch? Motor? Pump?? (arrgggh!)
Aftermarket radio, installed in lower position.
A/C: Air conditioning does NOT work. There is no freon in system. Owner said compressor needs to be replaced and has offered to replace for me (at no labor cost to me - and if I understand it correctly, has ability to get compressor 'at cost' and I'll also pay for part). I seem to remember being told that when a compressor is replaced that a receiver/drier also HAVE to be replaced? and something about also replacing 'evaporator'? and 'orifice'? Of course this brings me to logical question, should I convert this to 134/134a?? If so I will also need a conversion kit? In looking a bit at compressors, I've noticed some specifically state they are for R12 orR134 and some parts include same specs.) I've been told freon is colder, but conversely have read that if system is completely evacuated and conversion is done properly that 134 (is that it?) is just as good. (I'm trying to look to future, even if I'm able to get Freon now, I don't anticipate that will continue, and anticipating cost will continue to rise. And, conversion will make it easier to find someone to recharge system). ?
When vehicle is first turned on the IDLE is rough. It's clearly MISSING. Fuel smell is strong - both outside AND inside vehicle. (This engine has had its LAST rebuild so I really have to pay attention to its condition!) Doesn't appear to have any overheating issues. Since I was going thru this alone I couldn't really check exhaust (amount or color). After idling a bit, I thought I sensed a bit of moisture at end of muffler. (This will be major focus for mechanic next week but I'm hoping to get some feedback to share with him.)
Upon acceleration I consistently heard a 'tinny' rattling sound. ('Tinny' as opposed to a deeper 'grinding' sound, seems to be coming from front of car.)

I've had 2 people tell me to put Sea Foam in it, another told me to use Berryman's (not Sea Foam). Before I gave car once over, I stopped at home briefly and of course car caught eye of neighbors; one thought brake fluid is low - indicating it probably needs shoes/pads replaced. Owner doesn't live in same town I do and brought it here on car hauler: person who looked at it w/me then said he saw an oil leak. There are NO visible leaks now.

Oil is clean. Transmission just flushed and fluid replaced. New battery. Seller is asking $2K, which, depending on what mechanic discovers, and depending on how much I'm actually going to have to expend to get A/C system working again, seems reasonable. I'll of course be appreciate of any feedback you gurus are willing to share :)
Sorry this is so long, just trying to convey what I know/saw to this point.