Hello Bricksters! I don't know if Chris Herbst is still around, but i'd welcome his input on this. Anyone else who has experience with this, please chime in too!

I've got a 1992 245 that is in decent shape with 133,000 miles on it. I'd like to keep the vehicle for another 5-10 years. Over the weekend I noticed that the R12 air conditioning system was cooling weakly. I'd like to consider converting over to R134 instead of recharging with R12. What equipment will I need to purchase to perform the conversion? FCP Groton has the following kit for my car. I believe that the conversion on a 1992 is easier than the older vehicles.

9145666 Volvo Conversion Kit 91-92 Includes: Oriface Tube, Accumulator, Connecter Pipe, Oil & all required seals and decals $64.00 Genuine Volvo

I've done a little reading and it sounds like the system needs to get evacuated to rid the system of the old refrigerant that remains. Then I can do the conversion. What exactly is involved in removing the compressor and draining the old oil out of it? Is that the most difficult part? Are there any special tools that I need to get prior to the job? What total cost should I be looking at if I have a shop evacuate the system, then I do the repairs, and then have a shop re-charge it with R134.

Thanks for the help!

13

Hi Dan,

Not to disagree with anyone, but some of this stuff isn't really necessary. The Volvo kit allows you to add the new Ester oil (compatible with the mineral oil used with R12) WITHOUT removing or draining the compressor. Be sure to use Ester type oil (included in the kit), not the PAG oil as found in factory R134 systems (PAG oil is NOT compatible with mineral oil). I converted my 760 to R134a and used the existing pressostat and it cools to 34° at the center ducts. My A/C works better than ever, without swapping the pressostat or removing and draining the compressor. The pressure relationship between R12 and R134a is close enough that the original pressostat works just fine. The Volvo kit will tell you exactly what to do (and what you don't need to do). I used exactly what was included in the kit and it works great. I would recommend exposing the system to 25-30" vacuum after repairs (for an hour or so; you'd need to have this done at a shop, with a vacuum pump). This will rid the system of any moisture and will also tell if you have any leaks. Anyway, it's up to you, but I'd follow the instructions in the kit and see how she cools.

I hope this helps...

Joe S. - Volvo Master Technician

1988 760 Turbo w/276k miles, 1981 242 Turbo w/243k miles

Dan,
good advice on a/c conversion. one point found on the bb, your old pressostat (that thing that attaches to the accumulator with the plug) is for r12. pull one off a 740, 940 w/ original r134 (late models).

no other way but to remove the compressor.

i use a plumber's wrench to remove the pipes to the compr, it can bend at 90 degrees.

there is a pesky panhead bolt that can be reached from underneath the car with a rachet, long extension, and a universal connection--i believe the socket is 13 mm. it's screws on from the inside of the rear a/c sliding bracket.

i used the a/c compr to pump the air out, but best to use a vacuum.

read this month's archives--a number of posts on a/c conversion, and dig some more.

dave shannon's page for retrofitting instructions zipped look at the bottom of the page--lots of other excellent stuff, too.
http://www.homestead.com/volvo2/quickindex.html

regards,
byron golden
86 245
92 245

You will need to buy a few extra orings that don't come with the kit. It really is best to replace all of the orings in the system, always back up the fittings when loosening or tightening ( use two wrenches to keep from twisting lines )use a little refrigerant oil on the orings, don't ovewrtighten the fittings,
If your year uses the orfice tube setup, good idea to spend another $30 for a variable orfice valve, better cooling.
Compressor generally needs to be removed to drain the oil completly, fill the new oil through same hole, do not put it in the inlet or outlet holes. While anything is apart, cover the exposed openings to keep junk out ( little pieces of seran wrap and rubber bands will do )
Cost for a shop to suck it down and charge it will depend on your area.
Make sure to tell them not to add any more oil when they do ( for some reason most shops have this thing about adding more oil everytime they hook up, must be something Bubba told'um to do.
Good time to look at the rubber accessory mounts and replace them while you have everything out
--
-------Robert, '93 940t, '90 240 wagon, '84 240 diesel (she's sick) , '80 245 diesel, '86 740 GLE turbo diesel, '82 Mercedes 300SD for sale

There should be a drainplug at the bottom of the back of the compressor which will allow you to drain the oil from it without removing it from the car.
--
Mike W., six Volvos (four that run), Largo, FL

That's right. I found it the hard way the first time - after I removed it.

Gary

I can't help with the technical details, but as you may know, R12 is extremely costly these days, and the shop who evacuate it from your system should pay you something for it...even if it's just free labor. See what you can negotiate with them. Once the stuff has been purified and is ready for re-use, it goes for, what?...$100+ per lb?
--
Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F, dtr's 83-244DL B23F, 'my' 94-944 B230FD; plus grocery-getter Dodge minivan, hobbycar 77 MGB, and a few old motorcycles)