Help! I've gone from bad to worse. My '89 740 (B230FT) was bucking slightly on acceleration. I replaced the plugs and wires. Was told it is probably the distributor cap and rotor. I fairly mechanical, but while replacing, noticed something loose behind the distributor housing next to the firewall. I saw a reference in the brickboard FAQ to the Hall Switch Connector broken away from the housing, and believe that's what's happened. I see 3 black wires still connected, but the plastic bracket that fits into the distributor housing groove seems to be broken and won't stay in the slot. Now the car won't start. Can just the switch be replaced? I'm frustrated, broke, and am almost out of patience. Thanks!

THANKS EVERYONE, FOR THE SUGGESTIONS! I bought a tube of that Quik Steel 4-min. putty, and molded a piece around the barely held Hall Connector. It's running, so I'll cross my fingers. Luckily the 3 little wires were intact.
Thanks, again!

Hi There, My 86 744 has the same loose fitting, but if the wires are still intact the hall sensor should still be able to send the signal? The small plastic edges on this thing do crack away letting it slip out of the metal base of the distributor. I pulled my distributor, cleaned it all up and set in in with silicone (I believe) and then put a plastic 'slip strap' thing around the whole assembly. Seems to hold. Sounds like it might have come loose inside (from pulling and inspecting it), or a short maybe?

Good Luck!

Greg

The connector body is replaceable, and available from many sources.

I used epoxy to re-attach the connector on my 240 to the distributor. Granted, the 240 is different than the 740, but I suspect the same procedure would work on a 740 if the wires are not broken. You might try to re-position the sensor and start the car to see if the wires are intact but shorting out somewhere.