posted by
someone claiming to be carmist
on
Fri May 13 08:43 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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What's the deal there? I am looking at a 98 V90 with 114K that seems to be in great shape. All the 5K intervals are stamped in the maint. book, about 60% by a Volvo dealer and 40% by one indie shop.
I am thinking of replacing my 92 940 with 206K. Folks posting here are generaly positive about their 960s (versus for example the S80 forum) but when I looked at the FAQ section on buying used 960/90s it was nearly all BAD!!!
For close to the same price, I could get a 98 V70 with 109K, or an 00 V40 with 103K. What's the current mood here, should I avoid the V90 like the FAQ advises?
Thanks in advance for your opinions/experiences.
Calvin; 92 940 (206K);99 SAAB 95 Sportwagon (107K);00 Honda Odyssey (102K); and previousy 240, 245, and 760
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I own a '93 940 with 207k and a '97 V90 with 73k. I bought the V90 just a month ago, and had owned the 940 for two years. It was my first Volvo.
I had to do a lot of work on the 940, which just made me love her more.
But, i heard a lot about the 960/V90's and decided to look around. After a LOT of searching and disappointments, I found a car that was what the seller claimed. Low mileage and pretty well maintained.
I can't tell you how much more I love the V90, even after a few weeks. Its a far superior car in every way... and don't get me wrong, I thought the 940 was the best car I ever owned, despite (and because of) its mileage.
Look carefully, but make the switch.
Paul.
--
1997 V90 CD 2.9 24v, B6304S @ 73K, 1993 945 Wentworth 2.0 Turbo, B200FT @ 206k, UK VOC Member
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posted by
someone claiming to be carmist
on
Fri May 13 12:48 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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Thanks to all of you for putting up with my question. As suggested, I searched the forum and now realize it's a well worn issue. The responses are consistently positive about the 960/90 models. After many good years with my 940, it's making be feel like I've got to have the V90!
If you would, two more questions. The car seems extremely clean in and out, and drives great (everything works, too). The CarFax is also clean (for what that is worth). Without the service records, but with the book stamped at all intervals by either the dealer or a single indie, I am thinking that if I can call either of them and confirm the timing belt has been changed at the recommended intervals, that I can buy with reasonable confidence. Would you agree?
Secondly, NADA says $9,225, KBB says $11,596 (I don't know what planet they are one!), and Edmunds say $8,899 for excellent condition. However, I've never put a lot of stock in these appraisals. If the service can be confirmed, and at 114K on a 98, would say around $8K would be a fair price?
Thanks, again for your input.
Calvin
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I think $8K is quite high for 114K in the mileage department. It may be a question of where you're located and the availability. I bought a '97 960 over E'bay over a year ago with 105K as I recall and paid $4600 for it. I think you can get one for this amount anywhere in the Atlantic/Northeast corridor from DC to Boston. I covered my butt, it turned out unnecessarily, by adding a $1400 two year insurance policy that included all the major things that can go wrong with a 960. With the info you apparently have on the car, I'd set $6000 as a ceiling no matter where you live. But if you have any anxiety about the "interference" engine, I'd plan to spend a chunk on having the timing belt, waterpump and tensioner done right away by a really reliable mechanic. The one other immediate investment to plan on, if you're anywhere near snow country, is a set of good quality siped snowtires, and 2-3 solid 75lb. cinderblocks wedged in beneath the rear speakers!
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posted by
someone claiming to be Al
on
Fri May 13 15:07 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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If it helps I looked for a nice one for over 4 months. I picked up my 97 960 with 66K miles in February for $9,995. Even at that price I'm thrilled with my purchase.
Other than two door panels (Wrinkles) and an oil leak due to a worn O-ring on the oil cooler those were the only repairs I needed to make on the car. The door panels were an option they were not that bad but I wanted the car to be as close to perfect as I can get it. When I was looking I found that cars in exceptional condition and low mileage bring top prices.
I found cars under 70K are still going for over $10K on average. Once you break the 80K mile area the prices seem to drop as fast as the mileage goes up.
If the car has over 100K don't pay more than $8,000 for it. Although I have only put on a little over 1300 miles since I acquired it I can say it is one of the nicest cars I have ever rode in. If it helps the techs and service writers at my dealer agree with the posters that the 95-98 960/S90 is the finest car Volvo has ever built. I have seen the bills at my dealer for routine maintenance and repairs on the FWD's and it isn't pretty. One tech made a comment last month that the S80 and S60 owners will be hard pressed to see 200K. Reason when I asked why, was the owners will have a hard time justifying the cost of maintenance needed to keep them on the road that long?
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I hessitated to buy a 960 for two years during which time I purchased a 745 (NA) and looked for a low mileage 945T or 760T. This past Jan, I finally got fed up with the lack of HP and comfort (I suppose I am experiencing my mid life crisis) and, after comparing the 965 with MB 300 series wagons and BMW 525 wagons, purchased a 96 965 with 70K miles. I now have 73K miles and NO REGRETS!! Best car I have ever had. My wife, who does not get to excited about cars (she drives a 95 944) agrees (I was scared that she might claim it for hers since I always let her have the best car). No problems except (relative to my 245, 745 and 944) poor gas mileage (about 16 in the city, 20 mixed...however, hwy mileage is good at about 27+). I will change to synthetic fluids this upcoming week and plan to Lexol the interior. If you shop wisely, you'll be wondering why you waited so long. I honestly cannot say enough about the smoothness, handling, acceleration and comfort.
Good luck!
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The ones I have seen in my buying ability range are usually mileage of 150K to 210K. So I would be worried about what major expense items are due.
Talked to my indie tech who said it is a relatively expensive car to own. He has run 240s for decades. He menioned that the rear shocks run $475 a side, so a replacement would be around $1,000. (He uses Volvo parts only, so fpc might be less.)
Gas mileage is important and the sellers often point to the EPA 18/26 as fact. Do you have better knowledge? My 1988 240 is gettng around 18 in town.
Any problems with the non-steel (fiberglass?) rear spring?
Other items that would need $$$ at the 180K mile mark? BIG service costs what? $1,000+ ??
Any and all answers will be appreciated.
Regards,
Bob
:>)
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If your tech is attemptig to compare the 240 and 960 maintenance costs thaen the guy is loonie. That would be like trying to argue that a MB is more expensive than a Chevy Nova....duh! This is mostly evident in his assertion about the rear shocks. This outrageous cost is associated with OEM nivomats from the dealer. WHile I love Nivomats and wish I had them on my 97, they can be installed from FCP Groton for far less as most everyone here knows. Introduce your tech friend to the Brickboard.
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John Shatzer, '97 V90 @ 115K
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Probably the majority of the later model 960/s90's do not have nivomats so the rear shocks are 50 each and not that hard to install. I have not found the car to be that expensive to maintain, but I do my own maintenance. If you know where to look for parts and keep up with the routine stuff, you will do well. I am almost at 170k of my own miles and it really has served me well. Should have 200k in less then a year, wont be long now...
--
97 S90 with 184K miles still going strong
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posted by
someone claiming to be tjts1
on
Fri May 13 11:52 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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"Talked to my indie tech who said it is a relatively expensive car to own. He has run 240s for decades. He menioned that the rear shocks run $475 a side, so a replacement would be around $1,000. (He uses Volvo parts only, so fpc might be less.)"
I replaced both rear shocks and springs for $100 total. I believe in the long run the early 92-94 wagons have the lowest ownership cost of all 960 models.
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Awww.....I believe the FAQ is a bit disconcerting.
A year and a half ago I purchased a 1995 960 wagon to haul the wife and kids around in. It was a trade in at a local Audi dealership. I bought it for too much money and I drove it for about 5 miles before the upper inlet on the radiator burst and sprayed hot coolant all over the engine bay. I had only had the car in my possession for about an hour! I had the car towed back to the (now closed) dealership and had to wait until the following Monday to talk to them about rectifying the situation.
Meanwhile, I was referred to the Brickboard for the first time by an aquaintance, and read all the things in the FAQ. The FAQ got me all freaked-out and I was having some serious buyers remorse. It was pretty disconcerting.
Anyway, I have not had a problem with the car since then. I'm very happy with my Volvo 960! I got ahold of the local Volvo service center and they gave me a rundown of everything that had been done to the car in recent years. A replaced PNP swith and new struts. A tranny flush. Synthetic oil. Timing belt. Other than the PNP switch, nothing out of the ordinary....just basic maintenance.
It the most comfortable car I've owned and I LOVE IT! I would buy another, and I frequently watch 960's on eBay Motors just to see what kind of great deals are going down on this Fabulous car!
Too bad it doesn't get better gas mileage.
Cheers,
kkoch
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If it's had all the maintnence and the Timing belt done on schedual, it should serve you well. Give it a good cleaning with Auto rx and switch it to synthetic and you'll be in good shape.
They are a bit trickier to work on then your 940, but still childsplay compared to most modern cars.
--
-------Robert, '93 940t, '90 240 wagon, '84 240 diesel (she's sick) , '80 245 diesel, '86 740 GLE turbo diesel, '82 Mercedes 300SD for sale
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posted by
someone claiming to be tjts1
on
Fri May 13 09:48 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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My only advice is to ignore the FAQ. There are a so many mistakes, omissions and just plain inaccurate information there about the 960 that its pretty much useless.
For example failed transmissions in Puerto Rico due to hot hilly climate. In 3 years I've read about only one transmission failure here in a 960 with 270k miles and a coolant leak into the trascooler.
How about the block corrosion article. All those cars are all 1992 model year and have either been already fixed or taken off the road. The truth is the 960 FAQ information hasn't been updated in years.
Jump on that S90 while you can. They are excellent cars with a good track record at a bargain price.
Justin
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As the editor, I tend to agree with you. Much of the information came in 1990 or so when the first batch of 1992-1995 cars were dying due to various maladies. The later 960 (post 1995) and 90 cars are much better and the incidence of problems is much lower. This is especially so if one uses synthetic fluids.
So would someone more familiar with 960s take a look at this section and send me some comments?
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Steve,
I wish I could be of more help with comments, but I do believe, and often stated so, that the tone for the early 960s was set by the nighmare that Tom Irwin suffered through, despite a few others like myself who immediately fell in love with the car (especially my 92 965) and had no maor problems. We've learned, like every other Volvo, each model as it's 'issues' and I think the 960 series has their own, but as you say, not as bad as first thought.
In just browsing through the comments, I'm wondering whether there is any way to parse out the 960 stuff. I tried to review a few topics and found it a bit tedious, having to dig too much for my patience. I'll try again...
--
John Shatzer, '97 V90 @ 115K
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John, I'll have a go at this before I send the next edition out. But not for about three weeks: work and kid's graduation interfere.
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Well, it 's easy for us who sit on the sidelines to make suggestions! Your child's graduations is far more important than just about anything else. But I think it's the same issue that Jarrod has struggled with over the last few years, although it doesn't speak to the so called tone of the FAQs. The I6 cars should be separated as a different group in most discussions, similarities with other RWD models notwithstandings.
--
John Shatzer, '97 V90 @ 115K
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posted by
someone claiming to be tjts1
on
Sun May 15 06:45 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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I agree with this one completely. 960/s90/v90 should be its own section. 940s belong with 740s.
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Finally someone else who sees it the same way I do with catogorization.
Sometimes it just to much info to check because titles are always so vague.
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I too agree. I'm trying to find info on my '98 S90 and I've been looking for over an hour and I've just got to this message.
It would be great to see a separate listing.
My S90 is my first non-GM car. I bought it coming off of lease with 27,000 miles on it. I fell in love with the car. I recently paid my car off, a first for me in a few of decades, :). I just have not been able to find a car that I felt comfortable in or felt good about.
My S90 still looks new. People ask me what model it is because they haven't seen it. They are amazed when I tell them it's a '98 model. I'll be at 100,000 miles within the next couple of weeks. I've never had a car over 50,000 miles before this car. This car is still so solid that I still feel like it's new.
I've had maintenance done every 5,000 miles. Have had very little unexpected things done with the car. Like other, I have the yearly PNP glitch. I do the shifting thing and then it's gone.
The only thing I don't like about my car is that it eats tires. The Michelin's that was original equipment for the car will only last 15,000 miles. After a couple of sets of these, I switched to Continential and have gotten about 20,000 miles so far on them. I have some shutter when I stop and some vibration too. Two different places state that it's something to do with steering. I'll be having that checked next week.
Other than that, this car has been perfect. It's so comfortable and easy to drive. I plan on driving it for many years.
Sharon
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Take a look back a few months for all the times folks have asked this same question, the reponse is mostly positive. As for the FAQ's, I honestly dont look at them that often and whoever manages the website might want to take a look if they come off as too dire in nature.
I perused the s80 forum back almost a year a few nights ago. Man, what a pos that car is especially from 99 to 00 or 01. What really sucks is that they asked well over 30 maybe closer to forty for it an its now worth an eighth of that all in less than 4 or 5 years. That would seriously frost my ass on volvo. Now I dont know about the newer versions of the car, but you gotta figure you would probably be paying near 20 or better and the jury is out as to long term reliabilty. For that money, I would buy something line an Acura tl (which is what I did to replace this car for my wife) which wont nickle and dime me to death for maintenance.
I would jump on a v90 over the s70 or the s40. It will get you to 200k without too much fuss. Skip the FWD cars. Good Luck.
--
97 S90 with 184K miles still going strong
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I bought a 98 v90 on ebay about a year and a half ago. It had about 84,000 miles on it but seemed to have been taken care of. I wasn't aware of all the negative feelings about this model volvo until I saw all the talk on the BB. I was ready for everything to break on this car! I have owned several volvos from a 122's, 164,245,145,740, and never had problems like I suddenly expected from my newly purchased v90. Happy to say this has been the best car ever !!!It does require more maintenance , but I wish I had bought one sooner in my lineup of volvos.Hpe you have as much luck as I did.
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