I would try wiping the ignition wires with some dry paper towels in the AM before starting. Also wipe the top of the coil and the dist. cap. If the air where you are at is humid, the ignition wires (spark plug wires) can bleed off especially if they are old, worn or cheap ignition wires.

Also, your ignition coil might be weak.

Thanks for the responses, guys. However, nothing seems to explain why it starts right up and runs perfectly in the afternoon. If its vacuum leaks, bad connections, improper amp pull, fuel pumps, etc. wouldn't the problem be more persistant? Why is it just a morning sickness?

How's your wire harness? If it's showing signs of insulation rot, that could be a problem. Not sure if your car comes with the Hall sensor in the distributor or the crank position sensor on the bellhousing, those can be sources of trouble. But start with the basics when it won't start: spark? fuel?
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'81 GLT 245 @ 259K; '83 DL 175K

You may want to check the amp draw on the 2 fuel pumps both the exterior pump at fuse # 6 and the in-tank pump at fuse # 4. While the car is running,take the fuse out and place the amp meter leads on the metal fuse holders to read the amp draw on each one. Start the car 1st to build up a little fuel line pressure so the car will run while you get the leads onto the fuse holders connections. The correct readings for the in tank pump should be 1-2 amps for in tank pump and 9.5 amps for the main exterior pump for the K-Jet system. 3-4 amps for the in-tank pump and 6.5 amps for the main exterior pump in th LH-Jet system. If you have a Bently 240 Repair Manual (VERY WORTH THE INVESTIMENT) you can read further about the procedures.

One other thing I did to clean up a starting problem was to put a full bottle of "RED LINE" Fuel Injector Cleaner in a full tank of gas. It really worked!! and is worth a try.

Bill N. Hartford, WI

I had a similar problem recently, and found may useful threads on this BBS.

With so many sensors/switches and the 'knitted' vacuum tubes, it's a good idea to start by checking all the rubber elbow and T connectors on the tubes - as they deteriorate and split, then check all the electrical connections to the fuel system / sensors for a good connection - just moving them about might cure the problem.

Then start the diagnostics described elsewhere on brickboard - AMM, fuel valve etc etc.

Happy hunting

"cranking it until the battery starts to drain " On relative cold mornings, your battery may not have the reserve it needs. Have it tested, it may be time for a new one.

Klaus
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98 V70Rawd(108Kmi), 95 854T(88K mi), 75 164E(173K mi)