|
|
|
Little history:
When I picked up this car, the PO said that brake fluid is leaking somewhere around the back. It was unsafe to drive. So I towed it to a shop, where a new master cylinder and two reconditioned rear calipers were installed.
When I drove it home, the brake pedal would slowly go to the floor at traffic lights. The right rear (I think) squealed like a stuck pig. Found that the brake fluid leaked at both rear calipers at the line fitting, and the left rear pads never touched the rotor.
Problem:
Back to the same shop to finish job not done right. Mechanic thinks the brake valve in the back is not working properly. My argument is that if the valve doesn't work, then the rear calipers should default to full pressure. Yes?
Besides, if the brake valve is holding back pressure, then why are the lines leaking where they connect to the calipers? This is a reputable shop, but I think I will not go back.
Klaus
--
98 V70Rawd(108Kmi), 95 854T(88K mi), 75 164E(173K mi)
|
|
|
|
|
Mechanic thinks the pressure sw on the left side is bad. Very little fluid comes out of the nipple when brake pressure is applied. Could be why the rotor has not been used in the last 100 miles of stop and go. I hope that is what the problem is.
He also said the RMS leaks badly? I thought it just leaks. There is more tranny fluid on the outside than the inside, great undercoating! The mechanic said that if he revs it to 2500 rpm, the tranny will go into reverse without killing the engine - but wait until the drive shaft falls off! This car needs to come home soon to get some TLC and good parts.
Strandberg in Wisc. has a M410 from a 1975 with about 80K miles. Haven't called yet to ask about shifter and brake/clutch pedal stuff. Interesting possibility.
I found a kit to refurbish the brake booster. Think I will try it, $20, in a week or two.
Life is more fun when my finger nails have grease under them,
Klaus
|
|
|
|
|
Every time someone's mechanic says the limiting switch is bad because little/no fluid comes out, it turns out to be old brake hoses that are swollen shut.
|
|
|
|
|
Update: Mechanic took the limiting switch out and it was full of dirt/crud. Cleaned it up and now it works! Now I need to do the right hand side and be done with it.
Klaus
--
98 V70Rawd(108Kmi), 95 854T(88K mi), 75 164E(173K mi)
|
|
|
|
|
Someone suggested the brake booster is faulty. To check, pump the brakes lots of times with the engine off to make sure there is no vacuum left. Pedal should be high. Keep foot on brake and start the engine. Pedal should drop and then stop. If not, then there is no booster action. The booster has a filter in the back which may get blocked. You have to disconnect the pedal from the booster, unbolt the master cyl. from the booster, and remove the booster from the fire wall. Other failure modes are the check valve in the vacuum hose and a leaking diaphrame inside the booster. It is actually very simple.
|
|
|
|
|
Thanks Neil,
My brake booster doesn't boost. When I got the car, brake fluid went from the MC to the booster and the vacuum line carried it to the air cleaner - lots of smoke from the tail pipe. I haven't had time to take the booster off yet. I am still running with no power brakes. New MC though, and no more smoke.
Klaus
--
98 V70Rawd(108Kmi), 95 854T(88K mi), 75 164E(173K mi)
|
|
|
|
|
Very likely the whole problem is the lines leaking. They need to be put on good and tight. other than that, I don't see much potential for error upon installation. Try snugging them up yourself...
|
|
|
|
|
I would like to snuggle them up myself, but the car is hostage at the shop. Guess I have to stop by there tomorrow. %$#@#^%
Klaus
--
98 V70Rawd(108Kmi), 95 854T(88K mi), 75 164E(173K mi)
|
|
|
|
|
Hi Klaus
I just had my barke lines completely rebuilt...new hoses, lines, rotors, pads, etc. My mechanic told me that I had some play in the pedal when he pushed down on the foot pedal and told me that I needed a new vacuum. I do not know the answer to your other question but this is what my mechanic did to my '75
--
1975 Volvo 164E - 86,000 original miles!
|
|
|
|
|
BTW, the green service manual says there should be 6" of travel in the pedal. Not knowing how bad your "play" is, if the servo/vacuum booster works then you should need little effort to have the power assisted brakes engage. When the booster stops working, you will have to push about 50-60 lbs, not just a touch.
How 'bout that guy with a working AC??? What luck. I don't even have a compressor in mine.
Klaus
--
98 V70Rawd(108Kmi), 95 854T(88K mi), 75 164E(173K mi)
|
|
|
|
|
Thanks Kevin. Be forwarned, there are NO more new vacuum canisters for the brakes. Yours will have to be rebuilt, not replaced. You can sand down the outside and repaint it before it gets reinstalled.
My canister doesn't work, but that just means I have to step in the pedal with my size 15s and the car stops just fine. I wonder if it would stop better if my rear brakes worked?
SUBJECT : Brake servo, dumb ?
POSTED BY : 145volvowayne
DATE : Sat, Mar 19th 2005 at 7:51 PM
URL : http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=935576
I am not sure where you are but over here in Portland, Or. There is A guy nick named "booster Dewey" who can rebuild any brake booster. I could probably dig up his number if you want it. I believe mine was about $50. Better than the rebuild price!
Wayne
Klaus
--
98 V70Rawd(108Kmi), 95 854T(88K mi), 75 164E(173K mi)
|
|
|
|
|
