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Rear shock replacement 200 1989

posted by JoeL99 on Thu Apr 21 13:37 CST 2005
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last visit: Mon Apr 13 12:19 CST 2009

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Just received my Boge automatic from eEuroparts and I found they do not come with any mounting bolts. Where can I get this hardware? Are they special? Do I have to go to Volvo to buy them? I have not done a rear shock replacement for quite a while and first time on a Volvo. Will I have problem removing the rusty bolts and the shocks. I have a pneumatic impact gun, will that help? Any suggestion would be appreciated. Thanks in Advance.

Joe

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Job's done. Thanks you all. 200 1989

posted by JoeL99 on Fri Apr 22 07:49 CST 2005
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last visit: Mon Apr 13 12:19 CST 2009

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The job is done. It was as straightforward as you guy descript. Having the pneumatic impact gun helps a lot. Thanks you all for giving me the extra confident I needed to get the job started.

Joe

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Rear shock replacement 200 1989

posted by Volvodad on Thu Apr 21 16:48 CST 2005
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last visit: Thu Oct 23 16:18 CST 2014

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Give everything a good soaking with "PB'laster" penetrating lube the day before you start. I did, and shock bolts on the 81 came off fairly easily.
--
Bob (son's 81-244GL B21F, dtr's 83-244DL B23F, 'my' 94-944 B230FD; plus grocery-getter Dodge minivan, hobbycar 77 MGB, and a few old motorcycles)

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Rear shock replacement 200 1989

posted by KlausC on Thu Apr 21 15:43 CST 2005
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last visit: Fri Oct 24 10:15 CST 2014

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I just replaced mine yesterday. I had to go to CarX where they hav an air wrench and a blow torch. I guess 30 years of rust don't want to come apart.

The bolt goes through a sleeve in the shock and another sleeve to keep the shock close to the out side of the car. Do not use a hammer to get the bolt out. All that will do is make a mess of the nut and threads and you will have to get it re-threaded.

The mechanic put the air tool on the inside of the frame, spinning the bolt. At the same time he torched the sleeves until it was red hot. Still heating and spinning, he lifted the air wrench slightly and started to pull the bolt out. He never stipped the torch or spinning until the sleeves fell on the floor. It took 15 minutes to cool the bolt enough to touch it.

I am glad I didn't do that on a jack stand and a single jack. $160, 2 hours on the lift. 2 mechanics and one amazed shade tree mechanic.

Klaus
--
98 V70Rawd(108Kmi), 95 854T(88K mi), 75 164E(173K mi)

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Rear shock replacement 200 1989

posted by Herb Goltz on Thu Apr 21 14:25 CST 2005
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last visit: Fri Oct 24 13:23 CST 2014

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Hello Joe:

You should be able to re-use the hardware that is on the car now, assuming you can get the lower shock bolt out of the sleeve that fits inside the trailing arm-- the bolts often rust onto this sleeve. Having air tools will certainly help. Reassemble with anti-seize compound so the next time will be easier.

I was worried about rust when I did my '92 last fall, but it turned out to be very straightforward-- one side was fine, the other responded quickly to air impact.

The Boge Automatics are good shocks-- that's what I put on mine!

Good luck!

--
Herb Goltz, London, Ontario, Canada '92 245 w/109K mi

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Rear shock replacement 200 1989

posted by JoeL99 on Thu Apr 21 15:22 CST 2005
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last visit: Mon Apr 13 12:19 CST 2009

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Thanks Herb, I will give it a try tomorrow morning before the rain comes.

Joe

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Rear shock replacement 200 1989

posted by Joe HC on Thu Apr 21 15:48 CST 2005
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last visit: Sat Jun 21 08:19 CST 2008

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Hello brother Joe-

Rear shock replacement is very straightforward,
and you certainly have an advantage by having
the right tools. As said earlier, you should
probably grease up the bolts, nuts, and spacers,
before you get started.

When I change them, I usually use my jack and a
jack stand. I get the rear side that I am working on
on the jack stand, and use the jack to take the
pressure off of the rear control arm before I
start to remove the shock. If you don't, the rear
spring will fight you all the way. Then I un-nut (is that
a word?) the top one, and take off the bolt, nut, and
spacer off of the lower one. Then I lower the assembly
with the jack that is supporting the controlling arm
low enough so I can pull the shock out am
and put the new one in. I always screw in the top
of the shock first, then raise the control arm up
with the jack so I can get the interface for the
lower shock to line up. The only tricky part is getting
the spacer back lined up. Not a real problem,
just challenging. Have fun.

--Joe HC
--
1977 244 160k (?), 1990 244 102k, 1978 Fiat 124 Spyder (restoring)

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