Volvo RWD 140-160 Forum

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more electrical 101 type questions 140-160


I've got the wire made up. I had a hard time finding a spade connector
that would crimp correctly to an 8 gauge wire. Am I correct in assuming
that I don't need to solder these connections, given that if they short
the solder is going to melt anyhow? I double heat-shrinked everything and
used the correct crimping tool, so hopefully that's good enough. I don't
mind taking the wire apart and soldering everything if everyone thinks
that would be better.

I noticed a slight drain on one of the circuits and traced it to the
coil. Should I assume that this is correct?
thanks,
chris








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more electrical 101 type questions 140-160

I'm an electronic engineer and can say with some authority that a correctly crimped connection is perfect, like the other reply states. BUT, I still solder all crimped connections because I can't affort the correct industrial crimping tools. The industrial ones have a replaceable insert for the crimp surface and is not made out of 2 blades of pressed sheet metal. Expect to pay $100+ second hand! Using brand name spades also helps, as they have good plating on them which is essencial when it comes to long term exposure to moisture.








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more electrical 101 type questions 140-160

You should be fine if the connectors are properly crimped...

Slight drain traced to the coil? Sure... if and only if the ignition switch is on that is. And the points would have to be closed. Don't leave the ignition on that way though... coils left on get hot and explode, making a huge mess of goo under your hood. (and sometimes you think you hear gun shots if you're just watching TV in the house)
--
-Matt I ♥ my ♂








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I'm using one of those probe doodads that's got a battery, light
bulb, clip and ice-pick looking thingy. Right now I'm just trying
to make sure that when I reconnect the battery to the system I don't
have a hard short to ground anywhere in the electrical system and I'm
doing this by connecting the clip to a spade connector on the fuse
box then poking around to see where I get continuity. On whatever
circuit the coil is connected to, I see the light bulb on the probe
glow very slightly. I just made sure that the coil is connected to
a circuit that is on only when the key is in the "on" position. I
did try rocking the car back and forth to see if it was the points
but I'm not sure I moved the car enough to change the state of the
points. The car battery is currently not connected to anything...

thanks,
chris







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