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Fuel Smell After Startup & Faulty FPR? (Round 2) 700 1990

After getting some helpful info on this board about possible reasons for a distinct fuel smell coming from my B230F after startup (accompanied by a fuel leak towards the rear of the engine upon startup), I unsuccessfully poked around underneath the car.

Today, a local dealer told me they believe the problem is a faulty fuel pressure regulator. They want to charge $210 ($150 for the part, $60 for labor) for a new regulator, and a new fuel hose ($30). I was hoping it was just a hose or loose clamp, but it appears to be more significant than that. After checking the FAQ's it seems that the FPR is a basic wear-and-tear part with a 100,000 mile lifespan. I have no record of it being previously replaced, and the car has 139,000 miles. It seems that this could be a reasonable repair, but I thought I should check here before taking the leap.

Any thoughts or input would be (yet again) greatly appreciated...








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Fuel Smell After Startup & Faulty FPR? (Round 2) 700 1990

It would be helpfull if you could ID the source of the leak but any fuel leak should be remidied ASAP. If the FPR has a small diaphram leaking it could be dumping fuel into the intake manifold and it could be leaking out of the air intake. A small leak could cause a buildup after shutting off the engine. After shutdown try removing the FPR vacuum line from the manifold. There should be no fuel coming out. If so the FPR is bad. There's plenty of them in the pick-your-parts yards. Should only cost $5-10.








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Fuel Smell After Startup & Faulty FPR? (Round 2) 700 1990

I guess you read up on the FPR in the FAQ's:

http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/FuelSystem.htm#Fuel_Pressure_Regulator

If the car still runs fine with no unusual chugging or smoking, and if you don't see any fuel leaking around the FPR, then I think the dealer is yanking your chain. Changing out the FPR is a quick and simple way into your wallet.

Look for a leaking hose somewhere.








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A cheaper FPR. 700 1990

I have a "new" (when I shut down the car) FPR with the fuel rail attached from my 1986 740 GLE. If you would like it, I'll sell it cheap! It's been on the car for several years, but I've not been driving it, only ocassionally starting it up to keep the system "blown" out. I'd sell the whole setup to you for cheap + shipping. However, I can't absolutely gurantee it, but the low price should make it worth the purchase. e-mail if you are interested.
--
Six Volvos: all wagons.... 1972 145S, 1976 245 DL, 1983 245 GL, 1986 740 GLE, 1990 740 GL, now a 1995 940. Number 7 (a 1967 122S Wagon) is on the way.... Who needs a sedan, when you've got storage compartments in a wagon?








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Fuel Smell After Startup & Faulty FPR? (Round 2) 700 1990

Yes, DIY, FPR from FCPGroton and you are $175 ahead of this simple game. I doubt you need a hose.








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Fuel Smell After Startup & Faulty FPR? (Round 2) 700 1990

Easy to replace, there are two things to consider.

The FPR is the small aluminum can like object at the front end of the fuel rail. A thin rubber tubing comes out at the front and goes to intake manifold. Normally the tube is held in place with a special clamp.

1. Have a small hose clamp available when replacing, so you can use that if the spceialty clamp is torn/overtensioned when removing/refitting.

2. You might need a little bit of grease on the O-ring when pushing in the new FPR into the fuel rail connection.

This is one of the most worrisome symptoms (intermittent cutoffs) I have had in my car (940) and the easiest repair, once diagnosed, I have done. (Replacing windshield wipers can be more difficult and more injuring to fingers, to take one example) Do this yourself!

Good Luck!

Gustafkalle








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Fuel Smell After Startup & Faulty FPR? (Round 2) 700 1990

Easy to replace, there are two things to consider.

The FPR is the small aluminum can like object at the front end of the fuel rail. A thin rubber tubing comes out at the front and goes to intake manifold. Normally the tube is held in place with a special clamp.

1. Have a small hose clamp available when replacing, so you can use that if the spceialty clamp is torn/overtensioned when removing/refitting.

2. You might need a little bit of grease on the O-ring when pushing in the new FPR into the fuel rail connection.

This is one of the most worrisome symptoms (intermittent cutoffs) I have had in my car (940) and the easiest repair, once diagnosed, I have done. (Replacing windshield wipers can be more difficult and more injuring to fingers, to take one example) Do it yourself

Good Luck!

Gustafkalle







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