I want to replace the ugly, generic replacement ignition switch I have in my PV with something more authentic looking and have found a 122 parts car with a intact armored coil and switch. Before I have at it, are there any particular tricks to getting the switch out of the dash, or the coil off the firewall, for that matter. I have found lots of advice on how to deal with broken keys and how to get the cylinder out, but none as to how to remove the switch from the dash. Do I need to take the core out, or is it just a matter of unscrewing the bessel and pushing the switch through? The answer will, probably, be obvious once I take a look at the situation, but the donor car is 50 miles away and I'd like to be prepared when I get there. Thanks.
Bob S.

Coils don't last forever and what do you do when it breaks down in the desert?
In my humble opinion buying a used armored coil makes sense only if 100% originality is what you're after, in case yours is a showcar for instance.
Be glad with your generic switch and coil, I would say. Much easier ro replace when needed. And one day it will need to be. Problem is you can't choose the moment.
As far as the ignition switch is concerned, a more authentic looking switch (but still non-Volvo) of the more usual type should be easy to get.

You may well be right, Gert, but the coil in the car is the original,and it has been in there for forty-two years and well over 200k miles. The replacement I found is only ;-) 36 years old and from a car that rusted out after only 86k miles -- that's Maine for you. So I feel pretty optimistic that it will last a while. Now, if Danny is right, and the cables in the 122s are shorter than the ones in the PV, I'll be up the creek, but only out of 15 bucks. There's a good chance I'll survive that. My tape measure tells me that they are about the same length, but I won't know for sure till I have them lying side by side on my bench. At any rate, I'll keep the old coil and generic switch in my trunk, along with the spare water pump, fuel pump, fan belt, and all the other good stuff one shouldn't leave home without. I will also keep looking for a handsomer after-market switch, although all the vintage Volvos with replacement ignition switches I've seen so far have the same ugly glob on the dash that I have.
Bob S.

Remember that you can have the best of both worlds. All you have to do is cut the armored cable between the switch and the coil. Then you can have the oem switch in the dash and the original coil on the firewall albeit without the hassle of some day being stranded.It takes awhile [I've been there], but it can be done and if in fact they are different lengths then it becomes a simple matter of cutting a regular wire to the length you want. As I remember I first cut the cable housing in half, then proceeded to trim the armoured cable at both ends therby eliminating it. I think I had to use two hacksaw blades. That should solve your problem.

Have a happy hacksaw day. Jim

Yes, and I think the coil mounts using three bolts on a 544 vs. two on an Amazon.

Thanks for the heads-up. l'll check that out. I think I would be able to deal with the differing number of bolts, and if the 122 wire is the longer, that should work out all right too. If it's shorter, I'll be back to square one.
Bob S.
PS. Just checked; two bolts on mine. So far, so good.

....the point being that I fear you'll end up with extra cable - stiff inflexible cable which won't stay where you want it to. i.e. if the path from the firewall to the switch location is a lot shorter in the 122, the "extra" cable is going to go whereever the heck it wants. Maybe Phil or another PV/122 bi-afflicted comrade has dealt with this before. I seem to remember...., but don't know the difference in lengths.

Ah, good then. The B16 / 6V 544 I work on occasionally uses three bolts to mount the coil. I'd say there's a reasonable chance the later ones have the same coil and switch rig as a 122 of similar vintage.

The original switch (NOT the lock) is held into the dash with 2 screws up
from the bottom. The coil comes out with a 5/16"/8mm socket, I believe.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

On my Amazon, the only way to remove entire switch is to get that lock cylinder out of there first. I'm not sure how you can remove cylinder without a key, since you need to turn key to certain position, before you can depress button on cylinder and pull it out.

Also, there are 2 philips head screws directly underneath switch, which screw into lower lip of metal dash. Bezel doesn't screw out, lock cylinder holds it tight against dash metal.

On some later Volvo's there is a lower dash (knee) pad which covers up those screws, and would have to be removed first. Grab it if it's in good shape!

Coil bolted into firewall on my wagon, the socket attachment which fits is labeled 7/16". My other Amazon has 2 philips head screws holding it in. Doubt that is original.

People/ mechanics make modifications to the cars over the years, so be prepared for anything/ everything. Bring assortment of socket sizes and screwdrivers, helps if that lower knee pad is installed. Also bring some PB Blaster just in case anything is frozen.

If the dash on donor car is trashed anyways, maybe you can cut metal (with hacksaw?) from lower dash edge up to ignition switch hole, pull metal apart, and remove switch assembly in that manner. Kind of extreme however, there has to be easier way, which I can't think of at moment. Coffee time.

Sil;

If it's the same as 122 (likely!)...two phillips screws hold the IGn switch to the dash, and (three?) hexhead bolts hold the coil to the firewall...so it will be usefull to be prepared with nut drivers/sockets in the 3/8" to 7/16" range (possiblly metric also...it is a Bosch part as you know). The nuts securing the wires, use 7mm or 9/32" nuts. The lock cylinder needs to be removed first, so you will need the key or you'll have to pick the lock into the IGN ON pos so that you can puch the release pin.

Cheers

Thanks Ron and Damian. So the release pin on the core is located behind the dash -- better bring a flashlight along as well. From what you guys are saying, I deduce that whatever decorative bit one sees on the dash is actually attached to the core itself, and if I were to buy a whole NOS assembly, that should come with it. Any idea what those things go for these days?
Bob S.

Bob, with any luck you'll be able to push the switch out of the dash far enough to access the lock pin from in front (after you take out the two screws that hold it in place, of course).

It takes a really firm push on the pin to get it to move.

Bob, the new IPD vintage catalogue has them listed at $70, I've also seen them priced at $55, possibly even cheaper if ordering directly from Europe (try Scandcar in Netherlands). Also show up on ebay quite frequently.

Can't say for sure if they all come from same manufacturer, I seem to remember that in past there were 2 diiferent companies making those things, don't know if that is stil the case. Looks like they do indeed come with the decorative bezel, along with 2 keys.

That's for just the cylinder. I need the whole kit and caboodle. There is one on eBay at the moment with a $150 sticker on it. I was tempted, but it doesn't have the cylinder and keys, so I'll stick to my original plan, enjoy the nice weather in my favorite junkyard, and brag to my wife about all the money I'm not spending ;-)
Bob S.

Hi,
I just removed one from a '60 (thats what pick 'n pull marked it as) 544 on Friday and it was a piece of cake. First I undid the two screws under the dash. Then I reached behind the ignition with a small flathead and bent three 1/16" metal tabs fastining the ignition back from the dash and removed the front ring.
I then undid the two bolts holding the coil and pulled the the shielded wire and ignition through the hole and into the engine compartment. I hope it works.
I don't think you will have any trouble at all removing the ignition and coil. Hopefully it is still there.

-Ted
'74 144GL
'59 PV445