Here's an update: My buddy in the maintenance shop at work used a plasma cutting torch to remove the locking ring and inner bearing race. It took less than five minutes. No one in town had the new bearing and seals in stock so I ordered them from Advance Auto on Sat. and picked them up tonight. I'm a little concerned that the original bearing was a tapered roller bearing and the new bearing is a cylindrical roller bearing. There was a flyer in the bearing box stating this bearing was designed to replace the original Volvo bearing (it actucally said Volvo). From my experience, tapered bearing are use when "side thrust" is present like on an axle going around a corner and during acceleration. I want to get my brick back on the road so I guess I'll try the cylindrical bearing. The shop at work has a bearing heater and hyd. press so I don't anticipate any problems installing the new bearing. jp

I just did mine two months ago. I used a Dremel tool with the small cut-off abrasive wheel.
Be careful how deep you go, just about 3/4 way thru the ring. If you don't keep the cut-off wheel exactly lined up with the cut slot, it will shatter - you MUST wear safety goggles, eyeglasses are not good enough. I broke three wheels.

Then use a cold chisel on the cut, with the ring backed up on something that does not bounce. I used a brick resting on the driveway pavement. One good hit with 3 lb hammer and the ring snapped. It will slide right off the axle.

Same thing for the bearing inner race. it is a press fit too.

To assemble the bearing I hammered it into place without problem. The ring I couldn't get started, so the axle went outside (-10 C) and the ring went into 350 F oven for 1/2 hour. No problem.

Good luck.

'89 240 400,000 km.

titanium bits are coated with a thin layer of titanium, basically its a standard high speed drill bit underneith. The best is a carbide (expensive) or cobalt bit. The cobalt is not too expensive, and works really really well, the cobalt stays cooler and the bit stays sharper as a result
hope this helps

Ditto Lucid

I drilled mine with whatever drill bit was handy.

If yours are super hard for some reason, you can always use an electric hand grinder.

You are correct that there is not much shoulder to press against.

You will need to use a press to install the new ring.

Drilling and splitting the locking ring is the only way I know of.

I did 2 or 3 on 140s several years ago, and don't recall any trouble drilling with a 3/8" Black & Decker and whatever bits I had around.

Maybe your titanium coated bit isn't quite as good as advertised (?)
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Bruce Young
'93 940-NA (current) — 240s (one V8) — 140s — 122s — since '63.