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87 760 turbo has no negative pulse at coil! Experts needed! 700 1987

i have a white and blue wire at the coil, white is negative and blue is positive. When i have the wife start the car, i check voltage from a good ground to the positive of the coil. I get 12 volts when the car is trying to start. I then put the + of the voltmeter on a known positve and put the - on the negative of the coil and test it while starting. I get no pulse. I get no ground at all! I then tested the + and - of the coil while trying to start it, i get 0 because the negative of the coil isnt even a negative. But my positive side when checked to a known ground i get 12 volts.

So what should i check next? i obviously have a no spark condition and i ruled out the coil by jumping it and i get spark at the plug that the rotor is pointing to. So what should i check next and where are the locations of the part on the car? And what is the testing procedure?








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    87 760 turbo has no negative pulse at coil! Experts needed! 700 1987

    I agree the power stage is most likely the problem, but I am concerned whether your meter will respond fast enough for you to see a negative pulse. An LED light will respond quicker than most meters.
    Just be sure your meter can handle this, maybe check it on a known working Volvo ignition?
    --
    744 & 745 16v 4+OD, 245 SE auto, 242Ti 4+OD, 245DL auto parts car








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    87 760 turbo has no negative pulse at coil! Experts needed! 700 1987

    Take a look at the power stage, it is located on the linner fender well by the air box on your turbo car. It receives the signal from your EZK control unit and it then in turn actually grounds your coil. Not unusual at all to have to replace 1-2 in the life of a typical 700 Volvo. Past that you will need to look at the hall sensor in the distributor, those distributors need replacing every once in a great while. The seal get to where they leak so bad that the engine speed sensor is bathed in hot motor oil. If it is the sensor that is bad you can buy it seperately but rebuilding that distributor is not fun and I would recommend just buying a Bosch rebuild dist if that is the problem. It could also be a bad EZK control unit but those things rarely if ever go bad.

    Mark








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      87 760 turbo has no negative pulse at coil! Experts needed! 700 1987

      well, im about to test the hall sensor once someone responds to me on turbobricks how, he said to hook an ohm meter up to it and spin the distributor shaft. But i have 3 prongs and not sure which to hook them up to.

      Also what does the power stage look like and how do i test it? How many wires are coming out of it and which colors are the wires? thanks!








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        87 760 turbo has no negative pulse at coil! Experts needed! 700 1987

        The power stage is black, about 2" high, 2.5-3" long, and the actual body of it is maybe3/8" thick. It is screwed onto an aluminum heat sink with two screws that is in turn screwed to the fender with two screws. It has a single stack 7 row connector that goes to it. The connector should loop down from the edge of the fender and come up into the power stage. On your turbo car it is located behind the airbox on the drivers inner fender well. Testing it will be a bit of a pain in the ass because unless you have a know good tester you need to pull it out of there with the harness on it so you can test it.

        Testing it is pretty darn simple, you want to see that you are getting a pulsed signal into it from the EZK control unit on the gray wire pin #5 and that you are getting a pulsed ground signal out of it on the red/white wire on pin #1 headed to the coil. You should be able to do this with a simple test light.

        On your dist. the red wire is power in, the black wire the ground and sheilding for the other wires, and the blue wire is your speed signal going back to the EZK control unit. It should be a simple 5 volt square wave signal. A lot if times on those distributors the black plastic housing that secures the wires disintegrates with time and the signal wire starts to ground out and then nothing runs. If you have not removed the dist yet I would avoid it until I had to, once you break that connector you will have to remove it and get a new one. Rule out the power stage first, you can R&R it and test it without risking breaking it. Besides if you pull the power stage out and see that you have no flash going to it then you will know that it is more than likely that dist and if not the you're going to need a power stage and you can put off that dist repair for a little bit.

        Mark







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