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I've got a 90 740 turbo wagon (intercooled) with the 4 speed manual with OD.
I have a leak out at the transmission seal and understand they drop the tranny when they fix it, probably do the clutch at the same time, so it will likely be out of the car in the near future.
I think I'd prefer a 5 speed over 4 with OD - if it were an option. Anyone know if it is? I see the 5 speeds in newer 240's and just don't know what's available, if they are interchangeable, what sort of money is involved, etc.
My current tranny isn't almost always hesitant to go into first gear, and has a pause before it goes into OD (after hitting the button). My older 240 never did either of these things, not sure if I should be concerned about this or if I should just get used to it -
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I have to agree with the others too...the M47 5-speed just isn't stout enough to be reliable in a tubro model. Volvo did offer a stouter 5-speed (M90) in Europe...but chances off getting it here in the states are almost none...if you can, it'll cost $$$.
If you're dead set on a traditional 5-speed, you might want to look into a Celica/Supra gearbox (http://wwwrsphysse.anu.edu.au/~amh110/supra_in_volvo.htm).
--
MD ( 91 744ti SE w/M46 - 99K | 98 Chevy Blazer LT - 134K )
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The m46 (4spd w/OD) is by most accounts a stronger transmission than the 5spd M47. Yes you could put an M47 in your car but it would need to be from a 740, or at least have a linkage/shifter bracket from a 740 M47. Some have reported long life from the M47 if oil is changed once in a while. I however have seen too many broken ones in turbos for my liking. Just my $0.02 worth.
-Chris
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I agree with Chris, the M46 is definately a stronger transmission and will hold up better under the heavy torque loads of your Turbocharged engine.
If you really want the M47 (5-speed) in your car, they were equipped on the '87 and later 240s (replaced the M46 in the 240 lineup), and the '87 and later 740 non-turbos. As Chris mentioned, you will need to use the shifter linkage from an '87+ 740 non-turbo, and the driveshaft (longer) from an '87 740 non-turbo.
God bless,
Fitz Fitzgerald.
--
'87 Blue 240 Wagon, 255k miles.
'88 Black 780, PRV-6, 147k miles.
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Does my 90 740 turbo have the same 4 spd with OD tranny as my 84 240 4 spd with OD? It was going to the junkyard but maybe I should do a tranny swap first.
On my newer car, when I accelerate in first gear, I get a sound like a bad bearing or perhaps a damaged gear, very mechanical noise, can especially hearing it going up a steep hill in first gear. Haven't heard it in other gears. Seems like a sign that the tranny has issues but maybe it is indicative of other things elsewhere in the driveline?
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Yep, same transmission. You've just saved yourself a few $$... The only thing you'll need to change, if I recall correctly, is the shifter linkage - just swap it from your old transmission. The linkage comes apart by sliding back the steel sleeve over the junction between the rods, and pushing out one of the pins. Or you could just swap OD units. Only difference may be the overdrive unit itself, I believe a different (beefier) unit was used for the turbos but either one works.
-Chris
--
Chris, Dartmouth NS Canada 70 M-B 280SE, 83 245DL, 84 244 turbo, 90 780 turbo, 92 VW Golf
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Or you could just swap OD units.
I'm pretty sure that the OD unit will not swap from an '84 to a '90 due to the running changes that were made in the M46 transmission over the years. I just tried swapping Overdrive units between an '83 M46 and an '89 M46 and it was an unsuccessful operation. After having been advised that it should directly swap, I was supprised to find that the '83 had a 19-splined center shaft and the '89 had a 32-splined center shaft (and the shaft diamaters were different too). Needless to say, fitting a 19-spline shaft (the M46) into a hole for 32 splines (the overdrive unit) wasn't going to happen. That project was a headache and a half...
Since the '89 M46 was toast (due to the rocket-launch driving habits of the previous owner), I just reassembled the '83 M46 with it's original overdrive and installed it in the '89 740 Turbo. Granted, the J-Type and P-Type overdrive units are a tiny bit different, but it's only the size of the two pistons in the OD actuator housing. I was assured from several knowledgeable sources that the "weaker brother" would still be more than durable enough to handle the 740 Turbo. Also, if you order the IPD M46 overdrive overhaul kit, you can change between J-Type and P-Type overdrives simply by requesting different pistons (the rest of the overhaul kit is identical for both types of OD, and this is the only difference aside from the name plate).
God bless,
Fitz Fitzgerald.
--
'87 Blue 240 Wagon, 255k miles.
'88 Black 780, PRV-6, 147k miles.
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Thanks for setting me straight there! Only once have I actually swapped an OD - and that actually did go smoothly - but every other time it's been a transmission+OD going in, or simply overhauling the OD. I wonder if anyone knows offhand when the change happened, or how to identify which is which without disassembling & counting splines...
--
Chris, Dartmouth NS Canada 70 M-B 280SE, 83 245DL, 84 244 turbo, 90 780 turbo, 92 VW Golf
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I've been thoroughly convinced that I shouldn't be tempted to dop in the 5 speed and that's fine with me. But I do still have this sort of grinding mechanical noise in first gear. Am I on the right track thinking this is indicative of a worn transmission? Should I be worried about total failure or is this something that is likely to just make some noise? Could it be something else like a rear axle bearing, etc?
Is this a job for a do it yourselfer? It is certainly awkward to get to it under the car, and I don't have a lift (just jackstands)
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If the grinding sound occurs only when shifting into gear, then your 1st gear syncronisers are shot (not uncommon in a high-mileage M46). If the grinding sound is present while accelerating, it's likely that a roller/needle bearing is dying, or possibly some other problem.
The syncronisers are made from brass rings with beveled/pointed teeth on them, and are used to match the gear speeds together before the gears actually engage. They should be considered a wear item, since the brass slowly wears down as it is used. Someone who shifts hard/fast/high-RPM will wear out the syncros much quicker than your typicall grandma driver. Replacing the syncros involves a complete teardown of the transmission, since the syncro rings are set along the main shaft and you'll have to pull the gears off the shaft to replace them.
If it's a bearing going out, this would also require pulling the main shaft and replacing the bad bearing. It can be done by the home mechanic, but not without a lot of time and the Volvo green service manual that covers the M46 rebuild. Hopefully, your transmission does not need a bearing or a syncro, but those would be my best guesses (without actually being there to assess the vehicle).
I wouldn't consider myself an M46 expert, but there's a gentleman on staff at IPD who would definately be able to help you. He's not one of the regular phone operators or desk clerks, but works back in the office somewhere. I was transfered to him after talking with two other IPD techs who attempted to tell me that my "OD-swap" should work, and with me trying to explain the shaft and spline differences. I don't remember his name, but after being transfered to him, I was astounded at the information he could recall without looking at a service manual. It seemed like he had complete exploded diagrams of the M46 trannies memorized in his frontal lobe, and was describing from memory some of the inner parts of the trannies that I was having difficulty seeing (with the units right in front of me). After about 15 minutes of explaining the work in front of me, he managed to talk me out of swapping the M46 mainshafts. -and probably saved me about a weekend's worth of time.
You didn't mention what seal was leaking on the M46. The tranny rear tailshaft seal can be changed with the unit still on the car, the front input shaft seal would require pulling the tranny. I don't know if the tailshaft has a replaceable bushing or not (the M47 5-speed does not, but the AW-70 does), but I would advise replacing it if you are changing out the seal (or you have any noticeable vertical play in the tailshaft).
God bless,
Fitz Fitzgerald.
--
'87 Blue 240 Wagon, 255k miles.
'88 Black 780, PRV-6, 147k miles.
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Summary of my problems:
trouble getting into first gear - usually have to back off and try again
noise in first gear when accelerating. Can't confirm the noise in other gears.
Leaking front tranny seal, the one that requires pulling the tranny anyway.
I was getting ready to send my 84 volvo with M46 and OD to the junkyard for $650. I could concievably swap the trannies and still get my $650 from the junkyard. Is this a weekend project in a home garage? I imagine I need to get the car pretty high off the ground to get this tranny out from underneath, and don't know what all is holding it in there. Might as well drop in a new clutch while I'm there, or so I hear.
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