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Timing belt change with what? 900 1993

posted by  larrytay88 on  Tue Apr 12 04:31 CST 2005
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last visit: Sun Apr 29 05:13 CST 2007
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In hot country, Volvo recommends 40,000km change for timing belt. I'm buying parts for mechanics to do the job and would like to have advice on the following:

1. Should the tensioner (also known as bearing?) be changed at the same time.
2. Should the water pump be changed at the same time?
3. What else needs to be fixed eg hoses that makes econimic sense since the labor cost would be not much of a difference? By the way what about radiator and its lifespan?

Of late I noticed if I step hard and the accelerator and let off quickly, the lamda light blinks and twice the engine just stop but could easily be started without any hassle. Could it be due to the dirty Idling unit (Known as CIS)and dirty throttle or a sign of CO2 sensor failure?

Current mileage 228K km or about 130K miles running in prefect condition admittedly having spend considerable amount of money in the past on maintenance. Hope to keep it for another 10 years. This is my 4th Volvo having owned previously 240GL, 740GLE and 850GLE but simply prefers to keep this 940 Turbo for many reasons. Guess you may say that I am a Volvo lover but please never recommends the S series as it loses the Volvo touch and never as unique. Guess 940 is truly the last of the real Volvo that is available.








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    Timing belt change with what? 900 1993

    posted by  igtc on  Tue Apr 12 05:15 CST 2005
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    last visit: Thu Aug 30 14:49 CST 2007
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    I would say change the tensioner, the cranshaft pulley ($59 on ebay), the belts, and only if you're having problems with water pump, or power steering pump. Otherwise, leave thos alone.

    There is one more seal than goes on the front of the engine, although can't remember the name of it. But when removing timing belt it is easily exposed, and changed.

    The reason for the cranshaft pulley is not taking the chance of it breaking, from the, more than likely, rubber holding it together. They normally fall apart at about the 15 year mark, no matter the mileage.

    Check your diag lights to find out what it's calling for the stalling issue. Mine was the knock sensor. You might want to try the cheaper solution to clean the injection system, and carbons with Seafoam.

    There are additional steps, but Go the lesser expensive route first, Free to $15. Then spend the big bucks.

    1990 740 GL, 200K, REX Fuel System








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      Timing belt change with what? 900 1993

      posted by  Chris Regensburger on  Wed Apr 13 06:07 CST 2005
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      I'd only do the crank pully if it's already failed. 60 bucks is a lot to replace something that may not have anything wrong with it. I'd do the front seals, and the seal carrier gasket if there is a leak in the crank area. It's too hard to tell which it leaking, and it's only a paper gasket. The big problems doing seals without a volvo seal driver are the seal's lips rolling and the seal being driven in too far. Both have brought customers to the dealership I worked at after volvo "specialists" did t-belts and front seals. if the tensoner bearing isn't smooth, or it's making noise, I'd leave it alone. It'll go another 50K, and I've done them with the belt on the car, so it can't be too hard. another thing that's important is re-timing the engine. the cam timing can get quite far off after a number of belt changes.
      --
      cjregensurger@yahoo.com '86, '88 740 GLE; '88, 89 740 Turbo, '88 760 Ti







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