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245 windshield wipers. HELP! 200

1987 245 dl 300K miles. sudden failure of wipers. they didn't slow down over time they just stopped.fuses look good, everything associated with that fuse works 'cept the wipers. had a spare wipe motor, did a swap still no response. found a relay in my haynes manual, located it on the drivers side, near the head light relay. swapped it out still nothing. what would be the most likely culprit, wires,or switch?

need the car yesterday.

thanks so much








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    245 windshield wipers. HELP! 200

    I may be wrong but isn't there a transmission as well? My mechanic suspected it when my wipers failed because it is more common but alas, for me it was the motor.








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      245 windshield wipers. HELP! 200

      I think you're referring to the linkage from motor output shaft to the 2 wiper arms, and the linkage from passenger side wiper arm to driver's side.

      Pretty easy to tell if it's either linkage.

      If either mechanical linkage has gone loose, motor will spin and make some sound, but wiper(s) don't swing. Easy enough to tell.

      The other "hidden" component involved is the relay, which was replaced.
      (Remember it's possible that the "new" motor or relay is bad.)








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    245 windshield wipers. HELP! 200

    Boy, this looks like non-fun.

    Make sure you have a good ground at the motor. One of the 3 motor mount screws goes through a hole in motor with metal sleeve and contact area - should be clean. Screw should be clean also.

    If still no go,
    I'd pull the cover shell off the steering wheel area, look at the wiring to wiper switch there. Our '86 had a ground wire come loose on left side of wheel, everything run by the left-side stalk stopped working and also the horn quit. Dunno if there's another ground wire on right side. I'd look in both places. Maybe test the switch itself with a continuity tester or a multi-tester if you have one available.

    I'm pretty sure the '87s were still in the era with lots of (now) bad wire harnesses. Usually shows up in engine wiring, but could be anywhere, I guess. If you find rotten insulation etc., you could bypass the existing wiring and build new. I definitely would look at the other items above first.








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      245 windshield wipers. HELP! 200

      i'll check the ground. the stalk still operates the rear wipers and both front and rear spray/wash pumps. horn works too.

      how do i test the switch?
      what do i look for as far as readings? and what do i hook to where?

      i found rotten insulation but not on that set of wires , so far.








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        245 windshield wipers. HELP! 200

        "how do i test the switch?"

        Here's a question: Does the wiper work on the "intermittent" setting?
        (probably not, or you would have stated so)
        If it does, then motor OK, problem elsewhere.
        If not working on intermittent or regular "wipe", then
        you still need to trace down the problem component.

        Switch testing:
        Since it's not the type of switch that springs back after you push it (like the washer button), the wiper switch would pass current as long as it's switched over to the "run the wipers" position.

        Of course you'll need to figure out which 2 terminals are involved.
        You can use a continuity tester or a multitester (AKA Volt-Ohm meter).

        You may or may not need to remove switch from car.
        Removing the lower and possibly upper plastic cover shells may get you enough access to the switch terminals.
        For the turn signal switch, two good-size screws hold it on the steering column.
        Probably the same for the wiper switch.
        In any case, disconnect the switch from the rest of the wire harness - I'd guess there's a multi-pin connector for that - so you can test the switch itself directly.

        Switch to "intermittent", then find 2 terminals on switch that show current passing between them.

        That is, if using a continuity tester, touch the 2 terminals simultaneously, and it will light up or beep. If using an ohm-meter, it will show 0 ohms.

        Test the other combinations of terminals to verify that it's only that one combination that passes current for that switch position.

        Switch to "wipe". Find 2 terminals that pass current - same procedure.
        Would likely be one of the 2 terminals that worked for the intermittent setting, plus one different one. But not guaranteed.

        Anyway, if you can find 2 terminals that pass current through the switch at the appropriate switch settings, then the switch looks good.

        Being super-thorough would involve learning exactly which color wires run what, etc. You may or may not ever find that information, but I don't think it's important. If one combination of wires works for "wipe" and another works for "intermittent", that should be good.

        Also -
        Lots of old relays out there have bad solder joints by now. If you replaced yours with another old one, it could be bad.

        Oh, yeah - check out the relay setup.
        Have a look at www.fcpgroton.com
        Go to Volvo 240 parts - then "Relay's and Switches"
        Shows the relays.
        They show relay one for front wipers, one for rear (wagons), only for the "interval" function.
        Apparently none just for the wipers or washers, but I dunno for certain.
        It could be that regular "wipe" setting also requires that the relay has to be good, if the current takes that route to the motor.








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          245 windshield wipers. HELP! 200

          I had the same issue. Last weekend I went throught the entire system and felt that since all of the other functions of the switch worked the switch was good to go. I jumped in and took the three bolts from the motor. I then used a 10mm wrench and disconnected the motor under the dash (Passenger side) from the wiper arms. I then took the motor carefully apart and scrubbed with a brass brush all of the connections. The ground strap on the top bolt was very corroded. I used electrical parts spray cleaner and cleaned all of the parts of the internal motor. Put it back together and it ran. Who knew. The Haynes Volvo book is helpful in describing this repair. Watch out for the magnets-they are strong. Try not to let the brushes fall out and if the are worn, replace them. My motor is a 1983 and the brushes are fine. Good luck.








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            245 windshield wipers. HELP! 200

            tested the sw and did continuty on wires going to relays and to motor. all seemed fine. prayed. took my spare motor and ran power directly to it from battery motor worked. did same with old motor. it didn't even budge. praised God. swapped motors and chunked the old one in the trash. i see now that it can be rebuilt so i'll pull it out of the trash and give it a try.

            thanks for all the help.

            after i got every thing together i went to start the car.

            battery weak from sitting and testing and such. i had recently wrapped the positive cable with tape because the insulation was starting to crack and you guessed it put the positive cable from the other car on my negitive terminal.

            temopary moment of " ".

            now it won't start at all. did i fry a cumputer or something special, or did i just kill the battery sho' nuf dead.

            the neg cable on both vehicles was grounded to the body.

            thanks








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              245 windshield wipers. HELP! 200

              If you turn the switch and hear nothing, it's probably the battery or battery connections. I gather you were trying to jump-start the car? There is a potential for damage to the electronics, but that wouldn't affect the starter circuit, so try again with a good battery or a proper jump, but do pay attention to the proper procedure!

              --
              '81 GLT 245 W/245K; '83 DL 175K







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