|
Hi,
As I was driving my 65 122s, doing 45 in 3rd gear trying to get up a hill, the oil light came on, then ten seconds later the engine quit. I coasted to my buddy's house and there it sits. The oil is not low, and it still starts. I started it up to see if it would start, and it SEEMED to sound funky. It could be because I am not used to this car yet, if the sound was what it is supposed to sound like.
My question is what does the oil light indicate besides low oil pressure? Has anyone had a similar problem? Any help would be apprecated. Thnaks, Devin
|
|
-
|
Thanks everyone for your help. It would appear that the oil pump is infact broken and caused a plethora of problems. My father said that the driving I did with no oil pump completely screwed up the engine and now has to be rebuilt. Now the only question is only going to be answered by opening her up, what has to be replaced and what was not warped.............
Thanks again all BBers,
Devin
|
|
-
|
That's too bad. Your father is probably right. However, these engines are incredibly tough, so it is possible (just barely) that you may be able to get away with just putting in a new oil pump, which, in theory, could be done without pulling the engine. It's easier, however, if you take the engine out, which you'd probably want to do to be able to give it a thorough inspection.
If you have to do a rebuild or a substantial refurbishing, you'll have an engine that will be good for a long time, and that will give you a good excuse, later on, to take care of the body work you're going to have to do. I'd suggest that, considering the time and effort involved, you do as much work to the engine at this time as you can afford. Forget about that Porsche 911, you'll end up with a better car (one man's prejudice, of course) and, at least, you'll have a real rear seat.
Bob S.
|
|
-
|
Oil pumps rarely "fail" for no good reason, especially in an otherwise good engine. I completely agree with dad, it needs a rebuild or, at the very least, a thorough "freshening" (new bearings, rings, oil pump (lol), etc.)
Hope the tear-down shows no nasty galling.
--
Mike!
Oh, make certain you get all those gallery plugs out and clean, clean, clean the block, head, crank and rocker assy. Then clean it twice more!
|
|
-
|
It is unusual for the oil pump to fail completely, but not completely unknown. How did you double check the oil pump?
If the engine did get hosed through oil starvation then you should see lots of shiny metal flakes when you drain what's left of the oil.
--
I'm JohnMc, and I approved this message.
|
|
-
|
The lead to the switch may have roasted (it is behind the exhaust manifold and can touch if things are too floppy) and grounded out.
By all means check the oil pressure first. It is hard to get the switch out where it is but pulling the rocker cover is easy and oil pressure will cause oil to squirt out around the rockers at the shaft.
It did or did not start? Pump shaft may have broken OR dizzy came loose and allowed drive gear to pull up our of the pump (and then the dizzy climbed out of the gear so no run). Easy to check!
Pull cap off dizzy and see if you can turn it by hand (shouldn't be able to but wiggle it). If not, turn engine over and see if it turns.
No turning when cranking is certain sign of further issues and time to pull dizzy for a look.
--
Mike!
|
|
-
|
The oil pressure sender on the B18 lives sort of behind and below the exhaust manifold. Good luck.
Bob S.
|
|
-
|
The oil light is a sign that catastrophic damage is about to occur - not a suggestion that one check one's oil level. If the oil pump is broken, and it sounds like it is, that means your engine ran for those ten seconds without lubrication between the moving parts - that means about 600 revolutions... You probably overheated the piston rings, though you may not have done any more serious damage - but continuing to run it definitely will. First find out if you've got oil pressure. Easy but messy way that comes to mind is remove the oil pressure sender from the block (sorry, I'm not sure where it is on a 122 - I'm a 240 guy) and put your finger over the hole. Have your friend crank the engine (without starting - ground the ignition lead) and see if oil pressure builds up and sprays oil past your finger. If not, dead oil pump & wounded motor. Don't drive it. If it does build up pressure, look for some electrical gremlins that would have caused it to stop running. So, 2 questions for you:
1) Was it a sudden stall, or a gradual loss of power? If sudden, maybe you're lucky and it's just something like a failing ignition switch. If gradual slowing, that was your engine seizing up from heat & lack of lubrication.
2)When you started it back up was the oil light still on? If it wasn't on when you got it running again then I would suspect a wiring/switch issue.
I've got my fingers crossed for you!
-Chris
|
|
-
|
Yes The oil light indicates low pressure.
Sounds like the oil pump died.
I am not sure of the pressure it pumps to but the light does not indicate how much oil is in the system but rather if the system is pressurized.
I would strongly suggest you do not run the engine in this condition. I had an air cooled bike that had a similar problem. It got so hot, and the oil so thin that it wasn't doing the job, the engine froze, I quickly pulled the clutch and also drifted. After 2 hours the engine cooled enought theat the pitsons were no longer frozen to the cylunders, yep the metal contracts.
|
|
|
|
|