so, first my fuel relay started malfunctioning to the point where it left me stranded in a walmart parking lot. i jumpered the fuel pump to get it running as to get fuel to the engine(fuel pump runs and provides fuel) and it still would not start. I looked under the hood and found that my 25amp blade fuse next to engine was melted and the connector was completely corroded. i'm assuming this happened relatively recent to my fuel pump relay going out. i'm thinking that if i replace the relay and the fuse, things will go back to normal and i will have saved my brick from the walmart parking lot. Yet, i am still fearful that something else is horribly wrong by looking at this melted fuse, which to me tells me i have a short somewhere in the electrical system, although i could be completely wrong. If the new fuse i replace blows right away, what should i look to diagnose next?

thanks,
daniel

Go to a Marine supply store like West Marine and get a waterproof blade fuse holder for about $8. Use some dielectric silicone grease and you won't have to worry about that fuse again. Make sure the connection to the battery is clean and secure. Dan

While your at Wally World pick up a can of water repellent for wires. Checking under the hood of my 85 after a lite dusting of snow I found snow on both sides of the engine compartment along the seem of the hood. If snow was making it in who knows how much rain leaks in. The snow had accumulated right on top of the 25 amp and all the other wiring in that vicinity.
I sprayed all my wiring in the fall, at first I just went over them lightly then said F it and used almost the whole can on every wire I could find.

There's a lot of current going through that thing. As it gets corroded, it will get pretty warm. Yep, warm enough to melt and fail.

The replacements are $3 from Volvo or FCP, and some even come with new crimp on terminals for your red wires.

The 25A fuse is a normal blade fuse you can get anywhere. Other Volvos are full of 'em! As exposed as that thing is, once it's replaced, I find them reliable. I mean the original took this long to fail, so if it dies again in 15 years, that's fine with me.

Good luck with it, it'll be happy again with a new fuseholder. UNHOOK THE BATTERY before you mess with this or you're likely to cause a short despite best intentions and care.
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: Roterande Fläkt Och Drivremmar!

Sounds like it could be a short. I would test for a short first before installing any new parts. Use a multimeter or similar to test the wiring for breaks. As you know, make sure you have installed a new fuse before firing her up....


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90 244DL about 1/4 million miles - original engine/drivetrain :)

I beg to differ.

The OEM fuseholder is crap. Over time, the contacts get loose and/or dirty. Poor contact will lead to heat, because actual electrical arcs occur, giving off heat. A melted fuseholder is indicative of this.

Splice in a new fuseholder, available generically at any parts store. Put in a new fuse.

I *always* replace this fuseholder as a matter of preventative maintenance.
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'73 142, '75 242, '75 245, '80 245, '86 244, '87 745T

Yeah, I've replaced the 25 amp fuse and fuseholder on my own car. I know their crap and it is a common problem.

Replacing fuse/fuseholder was going to be my original suggestion. However, I didn't know they could melt (mine didn't). When he mentioned melting, I thought possible short...

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90 244DL about 1/4 million miles - original engine/drivetrain :)