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Yet another cold start/cold running problem (WARNING! LONG) 700 1989

Okay, another issue with the cold - not like we don't see enough of those posts this time of year. My '89 745T had an engine transplant early this year (60,000 miles on the donor engine - 160,000 on the body) because of problems with the head and other issues. Anyway, the car ran well until it got booger-freezin'-cold here in Chicago. When it's been below say 20F it starts and may die immediately but then will restart and run fine. The last couple days we've had these 8F - 0 F with -20 windchill. Cold as the proverbial witch's you-know-what. Anyway the latest symptom is it will start and run if given light gas immediately after turning over but if left without giving gas the idle will surge up and down and it will usually die. Once it warms up it's fine. This morning I get the surging idle but it eventually evens out and I get to work no problem. This afternoon I'm driving out of the parking lot and the car starts bogging severely with a backfire if you give it too much gas. It will allow you to slowly work your way up through the gears until you get it to around 45-50mph where it seems to run okay but any application of throttle sends the boost gauge up into the yellow and the bogging down reappears. An issue I neglected to address before it got too cold to work on the car (apartment dweller - no garage/no heat) was replacing the fuel pumps and filter. The intank pump is Bosch but the previous owner used some el-cheapo Brand X piece o' junk main pump. One of my mechanic/volvo guru buddies said he thinks the car has been running somewhat lean because of the junky main pump. So, it looks like I'm taking the bus to work tomorrow. Any ideas of where to start looking? Newish repairs: new cat, plugs, timing belt, most of the electrics (ie. coil, wires, cap and rotor, etc.)

Thanks,
Matt








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    Yet another cold start/cold running problem (WARNING! LONG) 700 1989

    Swab out the Idle Air Control valve and deoxidize the electrical contacts. Test the throttle position switch as well for correct continuity at both extremes per FAQ instructions.








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    May have partially solved problem 700 1989

    I neglected to mention that I have no less than two used air mass meters in the trunk, and suspecting that might be at fault (and easy to swap out), I put one of my spares in. I then neglected to plug the AMM back in! Of course I realize this at about 8:55 tonight - put all my heavy clothes/coat/boots/etc. back on, go back out to the parking lot and check - yep, AMM isn't plugged in. Plug in the AMM, car starts with the surging idle but then once running smoothly drives just fine - even gives boost with no backfiring. Turns out I drove all the way home in "limp home mode." I'm thinking maybe it's possible that the AMM that was in the car before the swap may have gone bad and the initial symptoms - rough idle, backfiring, etc. - was the revert to limp home mode that you get with an unplugged or malfuctioning AMM. Still, I have the issue of the mysterious surging idle at start up though. My mechanic/parts guy said a while back that he suspects a bad Idle Air Control Valve for the start up/die/start up fine problem. Now to keep my fingers crossed all night so that the car will start and run okay tomorrow so I can go to work. Anyway, I'm still going to entertain suggestions as to the start-up issue.

    Thanks,
    Matt








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      May have partially solved problem 700 1989

      My '87 244 and my '89 765 both had the same issue. I was able to solve it temporarily by cleaning out the Idle Air Control on the 765. The issue is back again this year though, but I haven't had time to clean it out again. Clean it out or replace it, and your starts should be nice and smooth.

      -Eric
      '89 765t, 194k
      '93 944t, 121k








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        Cleaning IAC 700 1989

        How do you clean your IAC? I am having simular problems.

        Thanks
        --
        '94 940T (160K) , '92 745T (200K+)








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          Cleaning IAC 700 1989

          there is a 1" hose that connects to your intercooler hose just before it hits the TB, assuming yours is a turbo. I have seen volvo mechanics take off that hose and spray a nut breaker lube directly into the hose. On a "lighter side" I would use carb spray, but be sure to really juice it up good! It will make its way into the IAC...which is a rotating cylinder that keeps the proper air mixture for a constant idle speed. They can get gummed up occasionally. it is also a sign that the turbo may be passing excessive oil. If you notice a better idle then I would then go throught the trouble of taking off the IAC (10min job) and thoroughly cleaning it with carb spray the hit it with a WD40 type lube upon re-assembly. Also worth mentioning a TB service would be nice, the butterfly and the tiny jets get gummy too. Also a possible sign of turbo wear. A thorough cleaning of this little gem usually helps for idle speed along w/ the IAC. Hope this is of help

          kingsxfn
          92 745t 130k







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