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Hi. As M.L. states, friday past my second electronic ignition was history (at last, this time was at morning on the garage and not in middle of the highway as the first time).
Saturday, I open the dizzy, and a fine black powder paste was over all interior parts...the plastic circlet (attached to the axis) was grinded by the border of the electronic module (to tall for a bosch 026 - B18A first flight distributor). Both parts of the electronic ignition goes to the trash.
After half day disarming, cleaning and rebuilding the dizzy (some rust in the outside and vaccum unit, and the creamy grease with plastic powder over the weights)now I return again to points and a blue bosch coil (from a red one with resistor, from 24KV to 12 KV spark). Of course, also return the pain of a unstable idle speed, etc, etc.
By pure luck, a locally guy offer a MSD 5 ignition amplifier (good for standard cars, no good for hotrods, his mistake) on a ebay like web site. I adquire it and set on my car (really easy stuff).
The bad part: my tachometer read 3Krpm for any rpm on 1-3K (but from 3 to 6 Krpm it work fine). The good part: mi engine roar with a lot of more power!, no black smoke at start, and the oil pressure going from 100 to 40 psi on only 30 seconds (before it takes 10 minutes). And the water temperature remain on 95-98 C after half hour on idle (no overhot!). The exhaust manifold are more hot, as the exhaust, but no means overheated.
I am afraid that in my previous setup the mixture in the cylinders don't spark on some cycles. What do you think?
Joaqin
PD.- I will post a photo of the setup next week (sorry, my wife borrow the digital camera).
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Well, if it runs much better now, the old ignition clearly wasn't doing all it should have been.
What I don't understand is how good spark makes the oil pressure come up more quickly. Usually it comes up to full pressure almost instantly, or in no more than 2-3 seconds on cars with oil coolers. I suspect that your gauge is not quite right. ???
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Hi, you are right, at start the gauge goes from 0 to 100 psi (probably more due 100 psi is max on that gauge) on less of a second. It return down to 40 psi on near half minute after go to 100 psi (with the previously setup, that downgrade take a lot more time). When I run on the Panamericana highway for one o two hours (100 kph or bit more - legal limit here), it down up to 25-30 psi.
I has the same idea about a inacurrate or damaged gauge. Due it, I test it on pair with a calibrated gauge from my university: cutting the tech crap, it has 1% error at low psi, and 5% at high psi (0-100 psi range). For a automotive gauge, i feel that imprecission acceptable (but, I´m right?).
Weeks ago i has the feeling about the 20W-50 oil on the engine was too sticky for a re-pistoned and re-ringed B18A machine with less of 30 Km of daily running at low speeds (conmmuting home-work-home on a city with 80 kph limit and a lot of bottlenecks - usually we drive here at 40 kph turttle speed).
Due it, I will put 20W-40 oil on the engine on the next routine maintenance. But, do you know if a rebuilded engine work fine with the original SAE 30 oil?
Also, could be thinking like a old crone, and that behavior is usual on our cars...
Saludos,
Joaquin
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I think 20W-50 is too sticky too. I'd use 10W-30 or 10W-40 unless you
are getting temps over 40°C on a regular basis.
I think your oil pressure gauge is sufficiently accurate, especially if you
know how far off it is and whether it reads too high or too low.
Wonder if better performance is in part due to better ignition timing.
Too retarded (not advanced enough) will give you poor performance and
overheating, especially in the exhaust.
Will be off practicing Spanish on a large island in the Caribbean for the
coming week.
--
George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!
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Hola George!. Gracias, si en mi ciudad la temperatura llegase a 40 grados centigrados, seria una noticia de primera plana en los diarios. Usualmente (sin contar los aņos que tenemos el fenomeno de "La Niņa") tenemos entre 13 y 32 grados a lo largo del aņo, siendo el promedio 15 en invierno y 27 en verano (aqui el otoņo y la primavera solo existen en el papel).
Creo que con la mala ignicion no se generaba suficiente calor en parte del bloque motor como para hacer fluido del todo al aceite. En unas semanas un amigo mio viaja a europa y se ha ofrecido a conseguirme una de esas bujias transparentes para ver el color de la llama en el cilindro, veremos entonces si mis ajuste del avance (hecho con lampara estroboscopica) es el adecuado.
The same on spanglish:
Hi George, Thanks, if in my city the temperature going to 104 degrees, it will the main subject on local newspapers. Usually (without counting "La Niņa" years) we have here between 55 and 90 degress along the year, with a mean of 60 on winter and 80 on summer (autuum and spring are near inexistent).
I believe my bad ignition make insufficient heat on part of the engine block, and due it, the oil was not totaly fluid. In some weeks a friend of mine goes to Europe. and he offer to adquire one of that transparent sparks for see the color of the flame into the cylinder. Then I will check with it if my advance setting (made with a strob light) is adequate.
Por cierto, que disfrutes del sol y de la isla tropical...
Cordialmente,
Joaquin
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Joaquin,
Thanks, if in my city the temperature going to 104 degrees, it will the main subject on local newspapers. Usually (without counting "La Niņa" years) we have here between 55 and 90 degress along the year, with a mean of 60 on winter and 80 on summer (autuum and spring are near inexistent).
I would prefer 20W-50 oil year-round in those temperatures. It's not too "sticky" -- remember it's still only 20W when cold, lighter than the originally recommended 30W.
Your pressure gauge seems plenty accurate enough, but there's still a problem somewhere. Typical oil pressures for a healthy motor are 70-80 psi at a cold idle, and it should stabilize there immediately upon start-up. Fully hot idle should be 40-50 psi.
I believe my bad ignition make insufficient heat on part of the engine block, and due it, the oil was not totaly fluid.
No... spark does nothing to heat the engine. Heat comes mostly from combustion, and secondarily from friction. Efficient combustion makes the engine run cooler, not hotter.
In some weeks a friend of mine goes to Europe. and he offer to adquire one of that transparent sparks for see the color of the flame into the cylinder.
That checks the air/fuel mixture, not ignition. You should be able to check the mixture from the spark plug color without that.
Then I will check with it if my advance setting (made with a strob light) is adequate.
The best setting will make the engine run cooler. I don't think any of this is related to the oil pressure irregularities.
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Thanks Phil, I value your insights and experience.
Then, at cold idle, my car are up to 20 psi over the usual pressure (at hot idle is on normal range)...ummh..could be a clogged oil way on some part... after buy rojo (my car) I get a lot of debris after a cleaning of oil ducts, and probably some leave in. Not so critical to open the engine right now, but to be on mind on next engine can open.
Also, 20W-50 oil is more than adequate for my old rojo.
I ve in mind another probably source of maladies: the engine head, it could be need some work due I use here 97 RON gas unleaded - no more leaded gas available, except a salad 84 RON for buggies. Due it the valves would be need a seat insert and guide change (probably soon). It can be related with low compression values (225, 225, 225, 220 - same values with oil trick) on my engine. The head is not rebuilted (up today) due I remain seeking here for a experienced small factory to made the job (good machinists here are very rare).
Also, a friend of mine (he have a Mustang) talk me about the advantage of diesel oils on our old engines...ŋdo you know if him was right or I need to present him with a copy of a 60's texaco oil ad?.
Thanks for your kindly answers,
Joaquin
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Hi Joaquin,
It could be simply that the round seals on either end of the tube that goes from the oil pump to the engine block are leaking. This is fairly common, and very cheap to fix, although it's most easily done with the engine out of the car.
Perhaps the pump impeller gears are wearing out, or the relief spring in the pump is getting weak. Again much cheaper to repair than rebuilding the entire engine.
In any case, I don't mean to alarm you -- just pointing out that you have a condition that's not "normal." It sounds like you don't often drive the car hard, so it's unlikely that you'll have a catastrophic failure from this that will leave you stranded by the side of the road. Enjoy the better running from the new ignition, and the motor will let you know when serious work is really necessary.
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posted by
someone claiming to be mjamgb
on
Wed Nov 17 10:11 CST 2004 [ RELATED]
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A fresh engine with nice tight tolerences will not get proper lubrication of the bearing surfaces on "thick" oil. Sure, 20W50 acts like 20W when cold but that is still much more viscous than 5W. I suggest changing over to 5W25 or 5W30 until the engine has been run in a while.
Too thick oil (and running at such high pressures) will cause all sorts of oil starvation issues.
His symptoms appear consistant with excessively viscous oil to me.
Did you re-time the engine too? It is possible you had several troubles and a mis-fire would definitely run cooler as you had a charge cool the cylinder and do no work (nor generate any heat).
Mike!
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