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87 240 DL Wagon
Replacing rotors and calipers all around. When taking the rear rotors off I had a hell of a time. Sprayed PB Blaster and after a while of cursing the rust I used a hammer and hit from behing the rotor to loosen it. I could turn the wheel but could hear something (Emer.Brk. Pads?)rubbing a little inside the rotor. After getting the rotor off (and one E.B. pad with it) I'm at a loss what to do, There's alot of rust and wondering if I have to replace the whole EB. Although the pads looked ok, there was a groove the same width of the pads in the rotors like they'd been rubbing. Any and all help greatly appreciated.
John
Centerville, ohio
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Hi John:
I just finished with the same problem last weekend. You should buy both new emergency brake shoes and the hardware that goes with them (2 springs per side and two spring steel shoe "keepers". Chances are you bent or stretched the existing hardware.
To give yourself maximum slack in the cables, remove the center console cover, back off the 17mm adjuster nut and the two 10mm nuts on the individual cables. Note that the cables cross under the car-- to adjust the passenger side brake adjust the cable by the driver's seat.
Next order of business, pull the shoe actuator hardware out a bit at each wheel and ensure that the actuators pivot in two places, not just one. They are prone to seizing resulting in a single shoe that drags all the time (the problem I had and by the sounds of things, you may have too). Lubricate the mechanism and cover it liberally with antiseize compound. My actuators had to be disassembled and wirebrushed and sanded before they would pivot right. Clean the backing plate behind the rotor and put antiseize on the portions of the backing plate that the shoes ride on-- don't get any on the shoes.
Getting the shoes lined up right and reinstalling the return springs is not easy-- having someone give you a hand really helps. Adjust the cables so that you get full parking brake action by about 5 clicks and no drag at 2 clicks. Having the car on stands with both wheels elevated is the only easy way to ensure that your set-up is correct. The adjustment common to both wheels is the 17mm nut-- clockwise means tighter cables. Balance the two sides by adjusting the 10mm nuts so that the yoke near the back of the parking brake handle is perpendicular to the long axis of the parking brake handle.
I used a can and a half of aerosol brake cleaner, a wire brush, sandpaper and lots of antiseize compound. With the price of gas these days it is certainly worth the effort to ensure that you don't have dragging brakes!
Good luck-- post back if you have trouble!
--
Herb Goltz, London, Ontario, Canada '92 245 w/109K mi
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John - Of course, the first thing you need to when removing a rear rotor is to make sure the parking brake is off! It sounds like you did that. If replacing the shoes or rotors, I completely further loosen the parking brake cable adjustment nut to provide as much reinstallation clearance as possible. Next, remove the locating pin (if present) and screw holding the rotor to the hub. In addition to the holes for the wheel studs, a rear rotor face has a number of unused holes that allow you to see the hub. To free the rotor without resorting to pounding with a BFH, I wedge a flat screwdriver blade between the rotor and hub face at the circumference of one of these extra holes and tap lightly with a LFH. The wedging action causes to rotor to pop right off. One note of caution: this method bent the blade of a good Craftsman screwdriver. I considered straightening it, but instead, added it to my "Volvo Special Tool" collection as a rear rotor puller!
Parking brake shoes are relatively inexpensive, and with the car on stands and the rotors off, you've done 75% of the work of replacing them. Clean all the rust and dust you can (don't breathe the dust of leave it in your garage, asbestos may be present), make sure the parking brake cables move freely in their sleeves, and inspect the little actuation linkage mechanism that spreads the shoes for damage. Inspect the end of the cable for fraying. The friction material on the shoes is prone to come completely off when worn thin. The fact that your shoes dug a groove in the rotor makes me suspect this sort of failure. If your shoes still have friction material and you decide to reuse them, inspect the lining for cracks and separation from the shoe. Any doubt, replace them.
When I did this job last winter, I had to replace the rotors, shoes (thin, cracked lining), and one cable because it was seizing. I got the parts from FCPG - good price, no surprises. Like you, I had found it difficult to remove the rotors. Otherwise, the job was a breeze.
--
'88 244GL, '89 244GL, '90 244DL, '91 244, '92 244
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One note of caution: this method bent the blade of a good Craftsman screwdriver.
Me too, and it was the BF Craftsman driven by the BF hammer. Just enough to break the bond between hub and rotor; thankful there were no p-brake parts wedged in there.
Later broke the tip clean off using same screwdriver to open 740 trunk in JY to obtain good power antenna.
Now my not so BF Craftsman screwdriver has a curve to the tip. Can't find one fit to drive an old FH screw, like we still find in old furniture-- but that is my fault, as sometime last year, I responded to a young lady's post describing unbelievably foul treatment by the Sears people, with my plan to help get even-- by exchanging all my abused Craftsman punches and pry bars masquerading as precision ground screwdrivers on the store shelves.
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
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LOL, Art! Like people, I guess screwdrivers have a natural life cycle. A childhood spent being forged and formed to meet a creator's unknowable purpose, the first flower of youth spent wooing potential owners, and the balance of youth spent, well, sc**wing things. However, time and hard use dulls once pristine edges, and before we know it, the owner is at HARBOR FREIGHT, looking for a replacement. If lucky, the onetime master of the toolbox, the most perfect incarnation of man's destiny as a toolmaker and user, degenerates into a scraper, then later, a punch, and finally, a pry bar. Perhaps the best the senior tool can hope for is a semi-respectable retirement as a garden digging implement!
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'88 244GL, '89 244GL, '90 244DL, '91 244, '92 244
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(Assuming that you loosened parking brake by turning the bolt behind the handbrake when rotor wouldn't come free.) Clean up the area as best you can. Check the pads to insure they aren't rusting off of their backing plate (if they come loose they may seize the wheel while driving). Reassemble. Don't worry about groove. Adjust brake so that wheels turn free when brake is released but just start grabbing on notch one.
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1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb and M46 trans
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The grove is more than likly the wear of someone using extreme metalic pads or an aftermarket brand of lifetime warranty pads,, really hard surface on them,, Replace the rotor as the tolerances on Volvo rotors are very slim.. Get a good brand rotor and not some junk if you want them to last,,also the parking brake is inside the rotor,, there are two brake shoes, not pads, that need to be replaced if rusted, they seldom wear out as all they do is hold the car in place. You can get them from the local parts store if they can order them, cheaper that way..Get a Bentley manual and read it,, it will give you all the information on the procedure..Bentley can be ordered on line or from the local bookstore,, well worth the cost of around $40.00.......Good Luck.:)Max
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Max..1989 244 DL 5 Spd., Bilstein HD, Turbo Swaybars, Poly Bushings all round, Turbo Wheels, Black leather interior, Electric mirrors, LED dash and gauge lights.
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