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alternator adjuster arm bolt to block sheer'd off in block 200 1984

posted by  Dez on  Fri Oct 29 12:51 CST 2004
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my 240 stopped running one night on way home - no elec... discoverd that the alternator was loose, turns out that the swing adjuster bracket was no longer bolted to the block. after removeing the fan and fan shroud i discoverd that the remains of the mounting bolt is still in the block... i figure i have to tap it out but i do not have the specs on this hole - haynes manual doesn't have it either nor does any of the 5-7 autoparts store's i've inquired with... any help would be appreciated. thanks








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    alternator adjuster arm bolt to block sheer'd off in block 200 1984

    posted by  Maxspeed on  Fri Oct 29 22:45 CST 2004
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    last visit: Mon Jan 20 21:55 CST 2014
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    Not sure either of the size but call the dealer parts dept and ask if they have one in stock,, they will usually help you by telling you what size it is,, I have done a few other ones by welding another bolt to the broken one and back it out,, but be careful.. mig welding can over flow
    --
    Max..1989 244 DL 5 Spd., Bilstein HD, Turbo Swaybars, Poly Bushings all round, Turbo Wheels, Black leather interior, Electric mirrors, LED dash and gauge lights.








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    alternator adjuster arm bolt to block sheer'd off in block 200 1984

    posted by  RLC on  Fri Oct 29 14:17 CST 2004
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    Hello,

    I suggest carefully drilling a hole in center of bolt, buy an e-z out (I think it is called) screw it in counterclockwise and bolt should come out, without damaging the threads.







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      alternator adjuster arm bolt to block sheer'd off in block 200 1984

      posted by  Five Bricks on  Sat Oct 30 03:08 CST 2004
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      last visit: Tue May 22 15:09 CST 2007
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      As many people in this forum have pointed out, an e-z out is anything but easy, and the bolt stub rarely comes out. I am exactly 1/4 on e-z out removals over the past decade, and I have NEVER been successful on cast iron. After the e-z out breaks (and it will break), you have a hardened steel insert embedded in the stub that makes it almost impossible to drill out.

      Dez, your best bet is to CAREFULLY drill out the stub, enlarge the hole, and retap the threads to the next largest standard metric bolt size. I've gone through this exercise twice on 240s, and it works just fine. There is a bit of an art to oversizing and retapping holes, so be careful.

      If you weld, Maxspeed’s suggestion might be worth a try. If the weld breaks, you're not left with a hardened insert. I wouldn't try a MIG box using flux-cored wire - too much splatter.

      Having the stub removed at a shop might be worth the aggravation. It would probably cost no more than $20-$30.

      Good luck.
      --
      '88 244GL, '89 244GL, '90 244DL, '91 244, '92 244







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