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Yep there was a V15 Unitek Phase I cam for sell on Ebay..Guess who bought it? Yep me,, Ok now the fun begins, I was informed by a certain dog (thanks strendog) that it was the best thing around and I believe him.. I ned to know if there are any quarks or hitches I am going to run into doing the swap? I know it is pretty much straight forward but experience has taught me that Murphy's Law is the only thing working when you are knee deep into a mechanical problem.. So any tips on short cuts or things to watch out for would be appericated very much. Thanks guys and gals..P.S. I will let you know what the increase in HP is after in install the cam, new 2 1/2 inch pipes and magnaflow muffler. Yes muffler not mufflers as in the resoniator is not going back on,, Thinking about removing the CAT also, no law here on it..:)Max
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Max..1989 244 DL 5 Spd., Bilstein HD, Turbo Swaybars, Poly Bushings all round, Turbo Wheels, Black leather interior, Electric mirrors, LED dash and gauge lights.
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You purcahsed that cam from Dan C. Cherish that cam :)
You don't lose much low end, and you gain a fair amount of highend power. Make sure you have a shim kit for the install, and USE LOTS OF ASSEMBLY LUBE!
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Max,
Once again congrats on your purchase!! You will not be disappointed with the cam! Nate brings up great points and advice and as always use the search function in this forum and turbobricks too. Also would be good to change the oil and filter after installing the cam. Honestly, I would leave the cat installed. The 2.5" piping and Magnaflow high-flow exhaust will certainly allow the engine to breath very well...perhaps almost too much. There are multiple discussions over backpressure on turbobricks. As I mentioned in my email, while I have an auto I do notice a slight loss in backpressure with the high-flow setup especially in low-end applications. Highway is sweet! Perhaps I should have gone 2.25". However, with your manual tranny, you will have much more control. Also look into a cam gear eventually. Let us know how it goes!
Best,
Adam
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'92 244GL silver-metallic, 150k, Enem V15 cam, Bilstein HDs, IPD sways, upper+lower braces, Cherry-Turbo strut brace, 240 OEM rear spoiler, 15' Dracos, E-codes w/side repeaters, Euro cowl covers paint-matched, Magnaflow 2.5' SS exhaust w/Unitek header
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D-a-w-g,
The loss of back pressure can be helped with a smaller diameter exhaust pipe, more engine power (and everything that goes with it), cam timing, or any combination of the aforementioned. Bedises, you already noted it to some degree. I should have went to the v15 but I opted for the VX... still I think, with some other mods, a 165hp is possible with my cam. Yours has much more potential.
Turbobricks.com is a great place to find Volvo information...
What about the stall converter for us automatic guys? I am needing information on that... ya dig!
To the poster, the only problem with the cam install is shimming the cam... you must make sure valve clearances are with specs. Many people can help you with the cam install. Just go for it! My gas milage is still the shiznit... and I got more balls in the sack.
Any information you need can be found in both the Brickboard or Turbobrick forums.
Pimps up, ho's down.
Jon
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Great points!! MVP used to produce a higher torque/stall converter but since has discontinued production. I made a post on t-bricks a few months ago and from the responses was under the belief that the cost would out-weigh any benefits of installing a higher stall converter. Still interested though!
Best,
Adam
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'92 244GL silver-metallic, 150k, Enem V15 cam, Bilstein HDs, IPD sways, upper+lower braces, Cherry-Turbo strut brace, 240 OEM rear spoiler, 15' Dracos, E-codes w/side repeaters, Euro cowl covers paint-matched, Magnaflow 2.5' SS exhaust w/Unitek header
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The cam swap is quite easy. Get a new valve cover gasket--you will probably rip the current one and it will seal better with a new gasket. Also, have a new cam seal to put on the V15. When removing/installing a cam, DO NOT only tighten down or loosen one cap at a time. Do it in stages amongst the various bearing caps. Absolutely do not simply tighten down the center cap when installing the new cam. I broke an A cam this way, and sure did feel stupid at the time. That is the biggest thing. otherwise, be careful and make sure you don't offset the timing belt, or else you'll have to take the lower cover off and totally reset the timing. The last time I did this swap it took me about 40 minutes, but the first time took me 2 or 3 hours. good luck on that. One thing though, I would advise against removing the cat, even if there is no law against it. Remove mufflers all you want--they don't change emissions--but cat's help all of us breathe better. When I build a rally car in a few years, I'm still going to put a cat on it. They aren't that huge of a restiction. Anyways, have a good one,
Nate Gundy
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'86 240DL sedan, 260K miles, M46, K cam, 25/23mm sways, 260 front and wagon rear springs; http://valvespringcompressor.weblogs.us/
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To reinforce the recommendation that you reinstall the catalytic convertor, I think it's illegal in the United States to remove a car's cat if one has been installed. If you live in a state where there are no annual state inspections, then your chance of getting caught is virtually zero, but I'd still recommend putting it back on.
Those who have installed the 2 1/2'' exhaust with a cat have still noted a performance increase, and it's not like the cat is just some part in the exhaust system that serves no other purpose than to restrict airflow. It's there for a reason.
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'89 244 GL -- 106,XXX miles (see profile for info on car)
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