|
|
|
I am just about ready to do this transmission switch and I have some very important questions: First, how do I wire up the overdrive with the solenoid and relay and all that? The old AW55 did not require it and I am lost. I have no problem getting the shift knob and side button. Is there a step by step guide to doing this? Where does the wiring hook up to tne main harness and where is the relay supposED to be and the solenoid? Secondly, which drive shaft will need to be replaced since the tranny will be a bit longer, the front or rear? Your help has been great so far. thanks.
|
|
-
-
|
|
Nice diagram. That is going to help John out a lot. Thanks.
Sincerely,
--
Julio Meza 1979 264GL B27F 125K --> BW55->M46, CLS, IPD Sway, 81+ Dash, Gauges, Flat Hood & E-Codes 1979 262C B27F 160K --> Restore Project w/Possible B280F 1984 245DL 214K -->Wifemobile
|
|
-
|
|
|
You should be able to grab the entire wiring harness from the donor car. I believe the old style OD had the slide switch which did not have a OD Relay. The OD Relay came with the newer style push button type OD. In order to make that newer style OD work you need to get the OD Relay that hides behind the center dash vents, the wiring harness from the relay, to the push button, then to the OD Solenoid. You will need to get the front drive-shaft from the donor vehicle because it needs to be shorter in order to allow the longer transmission to fall in place. This will be one of the best upgrades you will ever do to your brick. Good Luck & Enjoy!
Sincerely,
--
Julio Meza 1979 264GL B27F 125K --> BW55->M46, CLS, IPD Sway, 81+ Dash, Gauges, Flat Hood & E-Codes 1979 262C B27F 160K --> Restore Project w/Possible B280F 1984 245DL 214K -->Wifemobile
|
|
-
|
|
|
Thanks for the input. I am going to have to go to a junkyard to find a car with the shaft, relay, etc. Which wiring harness do you mean and where are the hook up points? I am a bit lost on this, obviously. Is the solenoid on the transmission? Also, another local volvo mechanic told me that there was a way to wire the overdrive so that the push button is not necessary and it will shift into overdrive automatically at a certain point. Have you heard of that and if so how is it done. This car is for my 18 year old daughter and it would be nice if she didn't need to push the button. Likely she will forget.
|
|
-
|
|
|
Keep in mind that I have a BW55 (AT) to a M46 (MT) on the brain so I may have crossed a few bits of information in my reponse. The AW70-71 (AT) is a BW55 with the OD Gear making it a 3-Speed with OD. When the OD System is running correctly the OD Relay (located behind the in-back of the center vents) and Wiring Harness (connected to the relay, one wire to the fuse box, and two-three wires going to the transmission) supply 12V to the OD Solenoid (located on the drivers side of the trannsmission body) which allows the OD Gear to be engaged once the vehicle gets up to speed.
When ever you want to shut the tranny out of OD (basically forcing it into 3rd gear - for passing) you can push the button on the side of the shifter knob. Unfortunately since the OD Solenoid / System depends on 12V in order to allow the tranny to use the OD Gear whenever the 12V is missing the tranny is locked out of OD. That usually happens when you push the button on the shifter, when the relay fails, when the wiring fails, or when the solenoid fails.
Your friends method of rewiring allows the OD to ALWAYS BE ON which is usually how the vehicle is driven until you want to lockout the OD in order to go into third gear to pass someone. But remember that you can force the tranny into a lower gear is by pressing down on the gas pedal enough to make the kickdown cable down-shift the tranny. I have never made the OD ALWAYS ON by rewiring it but I would think all you have to do is to remove the OD Relay and supply 12V (Key On II Position) to the OD Solenoid. This will make the OD Solenoid open all the time y 84 24which allows the OD Gear to be used at all times.
If the OD Solenoid fails (which it may in time) then you can do another method that will allow the OD to be always on. I used this method on my 84 245DL and it has worked great. When you look at the bottom of the OD Solenoid (when removed from the tranny) you will see it has two small holes. One hole allows tranny fluid to enter the solenoid which then passes by the solenoid plunger (which is open when 12V are present and closed when the is no voltage) and then exits out the smaller hole. In order to make the OD ALWAYS ON you need to use a dremel tool to drill a small canal between the two holes. This allows the tranny fluid to bypass the solenoid and allows the tranny to use to OD at all times. Once you dremel the canal across both of the holes you need to buy the OUTER O-Ring for the solenoid (dealer does not cost too much) and reinstall the solenoid back on the tranny. With this method there is no need for any wiring, relay, or 12V to the solenoid because the solenoid has been taken out of the equation. I have used this method and I really like it. One day I will setup up the OD System to run like it is supposed to run but I must admit that not having to deal with a faulty OD is nice.
Click on the following link that explains the OD System better than I can. it makes for some good reading. OD System (Explained)
Sincerely,
--
Julio Meza 1979 264GL B27F 125K --> BW55->M46, CLS, IPD Sway, 81+ Dash, Gauges, Flat Hood & E-Codes 1979 262C B27F 160K --> Restore Project w/Possible B280F 1984 245DL 214K -->Wifemobile
|
|
-
|
|
|
Nick. Your help is exactly what I need. I fear I am wearing you out. Thanks for the time you took with the last reply. I am happy with not having to use the relay. Of course your reply brought up another question. The single wire from the solenoid has a male end that looks like it plugs into something. My guess it was to plug into the relay. If I bypass the relay and wire it straight to the fuse box I guess I need to splice another piece? My next dumb question is which part or fuse do I connect it to on the fuse panel? Or is there an easier way? I like the idea of drilling the hole connecting the solenoid ports allowing the OD to always be engaged. I am hoping that means you still do not need the relay and can straight wire it for the 12 volts "somewhere." I am sure this old '79 has never had an OD relay or the wiring for it. Help!?
Also, the tranny I will put in is an AW70 off a 1980 model at a local junk yard. I have available free a driveshaft from a wrecked '84 turbo wagon straight drive with OD. I also have an '83 245 wagon with the AW70 tranny with the 2.3 engine. Which of these shafts will work length and diameter? I prefer to use the '84 turbo shaft if it is long enough and use the whole thing. The '83 automatic 245 is awaiting my work on some lighting and wiring issues under the dash, but otherwise ready to drive almost. I can use either, however, to get my daughter back on the road sooner. Your advice is appreciated and much needed by this rookie. My daughter sends her thanks also. She really wants her little cream colored '79 242 back. It only has 230,000 miles on it. She actually gets outlandish offers for it. I guess it is kinda rare. I also want my car back which she is driving. If you have any more time I appreciate input on the above. thanks Nick, john.
|
|
-
|
|
|
If you wire the OD Solenoid directly to 12V from the fuse panel wire it up to something that is HOT only when the key is in the IGNITION ON (Position II). I believe the power windows fuse would fit the bill especially if you do not have power windows (crank style) and thus you have a nice, open spot on your fuse panel. If you want to dremel the two holes together to make the OD ALWAYS ON then you do not need to wire up ANYTHING. No Relay, No Wiring Harness, No 12V's. All you need is to dremel a canal between both holes and get a new OUTER O-Ring from the dealer so that the solenoid has a good seat on the tranny with out any leaks.
Now moving on to the driveshaft. The only thing you need is the front driveshaft out of a donor car that has the AW70/71 tranny. You can use the rear driveshaft, center bearing and center bearing support from the old driveshaft just make sure that everything lines up right when you are done. I do not know if the driveshaft out of the wrecked turbo would work being that you said it is a manual transmission (M46). When I did my tranny swap I just got the entire tranny out of the donor car that way the driveshaft was still balenced and it only cost me about $30. Below is a picture of how the driveshaft should be assembled before it is mounted to the car. Play close attention to how the front and rear U-Joints line up as that is the key to getting the driveshaft to be balenced. Also make sure to clean the driveshaft before putting the two piece together. There is a small ALIGNMENT ARROW on the front and rear driveshaft that is supposed to aid you in hooking up both pieces just right. Good Luck and let me know how it tunrs out!!!
Sincerely,
--
Julio Meza 1979 264GL B27F 125K --> BW55->M46, CLS, IPD Sway, 81+ Dash, Gauges, Flat Hood & E-Codes 1979 262C B27F 160K --> Restore Project w/Possible B280F 1984 245DL 214K -->Wifemobile
|
|
-
|
|
|
Thank so very much. I plan on drilling that groove in the solenoid. Easiest and most practical. I will not have to do any wiring and can turn this thing around a lot faster. I will just tie off the wire from the solenoid. Hey, I hope you don't mind if I inquire of you on other volvo things. My other daughter has an '84 242 turbo intercooler which she has wrecked twice but I have been fortunate to find exact paint matches for on another '84 242ti. I also have a '83 245GL that I have replaced the engine harness on but now apparently having problems with the wiring inder the dash for the rear lights. It looks like some wires are melted together coming off the fault relay as they go up into a harness. An intimidating mess and awkward to get to. I suppose I will have to remove the dash and cut and slice. Thanks for all your help. john
|
|
-
|
|
|
No problem John. Feel free to contact me at anytime and I will try to answer your questions to the best of my ability. I'm mainly a post-86 Volvo guy (LOVE K-JETS) so I do feel a lot stronger on my Volvo knowledge between 75-85. Also I have around 200 of the Volvo Factory Maunals for the 75-85 model years so I can usually scan information on wiring diagrams if you need it. I hope you can save the 84' 242 being that they are rare to come by. Wish I can get my hands on one of those babies. Take Care and drop a line anytime.
Sincerely,
--
Julio Meza 1979 264GL B27F 125K --> BW55->M46, CLS, IPD Sway, 81+ Dash, Gauges, Flat Hood & E-Codes 1979 262C B27F 160K --> Restore Project w/Possible B280F 1984 245DL 214K -->Wifemobile
|
|
-
|
|
|
Okay. Thanks so much. You are a hero around here. My mechanic guy (I won't attempt the tranny without a garage and lift) picked the '79 up today and the aw70. I will go pick up the drive shaft tomorrow (whole shaft) and find the tranny fluid lines at a U pick yard. My only concern with the overdrive always on is my fear of it being hard for my daughter to drive it around town as she does some. Your thoughts? Will it go into 3rd around town? Should the kickdown cable be adjusted differently?
NOW for another question: This '79 is sometimes very sluggish to start on cold mornings and needs more power. It has new injectors and plugs and filters and in-tank pump. It has new timing belt and timed ok. It should have a bit more power. Ideas? Thanks again very very much.
|
|
-
|
|
|
To answer your first question, No it will not be difficult for your daughter to drive the car around town or on the highway. Keep in mind that when I say the OD is ALWAYS ON I mean that the OD Gear is always going to be enabled but only when the vehicle is up to speed (35-40MPH+) and if the gas pedal is not depressed too much. The vehicle will be using all FOUR gears when the time is right thus making the drive much more enjoyable, saving you more gas (i.e. better MPG), and finally putting less stress on that B21 engine by allowing it to use a lower drive gear (OD) which causes the RPM's to drop at higher speeds.
Now the very sluggish starts in the morning and lack of power are common problems on old K-Jet Systems (thats the type of FUEL INJECTION System the 79 242 is using). The main players on a K-Jet System that assist/aid the engine on cold starts are the Thermal Time Switch (TTS) & Cold Start Injector (CSI). The components that assist the engine while idling when cold (after a cold start) is the Air Auxiliary Valve (AAV), and the Control Pressure Regulator (CPR). Read the following link to a past post (also click on the links in the post that take you into the archives) in order to better understand these components. Also take a look at the pictures below to learn about the K-Jet System and the Air Auxiliary Valve (AAV).
AAV & CPR Post
Now beside the AAV (air choke) and the CPR (gas choke) which helps the engine run when cold, the Thermal Time Switch (TTS) and Cold Start Injector (CSI) assist the engine on the cold starts. The TTS is a thermistor type sensor/switch that closes when the coolant/engine is cold and completes the circuit for the Cold Start Injector in order for the CSI to spray extra fuel into the enigine when the starter motor is engaged. The CSI only works when two condtions are present, 1) the TTS is cold enough to close it's contacts & 2) the starter motor is engaged. Even at the coldest temps the CSI would only stay on for 8-10 seconds and that is if the starter motor is left engaged for that long (continuous cranking). At warmer temps (50-60F+) the CSI only sprays for a smaller period of time (3-4 seconds). Look at the diagram below to see the circuit for the CSI & TTS.
 .
Although these cold start problems / bad or rough idle/running when cold can all be caused by failures in the components I have mentioned ANY AIR LEAKS in the intake system can also cause rough starts and bad idle when cold. Any air that gets by the Fuel Distributor Air Flow Sensor Plate and sneaks into the intake stream cause a LEAN mixture which make cold starts / cold idle even harder on the engine (i.e. cold engines need a rich "CHOKED" mixture to warm up). Check all vacuum lines including those connected to the AAV, check the intake manifold gasket for air leaks, the injector seals, the flame tramp / flame trap hoses (if equipped), and the rubber boot between the Fuel Distributor & the Intake Manifold. Make sure that all those items are not letting air leak past the fuel distributor so that every piece of air is being accounted for and that the right amount of fuel is being injected into the engine.
That should cover it. I know it is a lot of information but feel free to ask me any questions if you need further clarification. Good luck on the tranny swap!!!
(P.S. Thanks to 81242DLB21FCA for the TTS & CSI Diagram.)
Sincerely,
--
Julio Meza 1979 264GL B27F 125K --> BW55->M46, CLS, IPD Sway, 81+ Dash, Gauges, Flat Hood & E-Codes 1979 262C B27F 160K --> Restore Project w/Possible B280F 1984 245DL 214K -->Wifemobile
|
|
-
|
|
|
Thank you for all the terrific help with the tranny switch. The AW70 switch has worked out perfectly. I took the solenoid and made a channel between the two holes, cut the old raggedy wire, and bolted it back on with the new outer O-ring seal. This old car shifts into overdrive so smooth and it runs so quiet I just know it will save my daughter bucks on gas. Thanks so much Julio. You are a champ and my daughter is smiling and I got my car back.
NOW, any advice you can give on replacing the front oil seals would be very welcome since I have never done that. When the tranny was replaced we also put a new rear main seal in, but determined that most of the oil leak (a quart per week) was out the front lower seal. Where on this forum would give me details on that job, start to finish? I have the three seals.
jg
|
|
-
|
|
|
Hey JG,
Glad everything went well on the tranny swap. Glad to see another project thought out and finished with a little help and a whole lot of love for these cars. I'm sure that B21F engine is thanking you now that it can cruise the highways at a much lower RPM.
As far as the front oil seals I have not ever changed them on my Volvo's. I have a 79 264GL & 79 262C so those do not have the same oil seals you speak of. My 84 245DL does not leak fluid since we bought it from a fellow brickboarded last year so I have not had to changing them. I would first run a search for " OIL SEALS " or " FRONT OIL SEALS " and see what that comes up with. If you can not find enough information there then make a post on the brickboard and I'm sure some of the more seasoned veterans will be glad to give you a hand.
My take on it is that you have to remove all the acc. belts, the timing belt, and the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys in order to get to all there oil seals and get the job done right. While you are in there it would be a good time to change your timing belt and timing belt tensioner if they are worn. That's all that I can see that needs to be done just by looking into the engine bay.
Great job on that tranny swap and I hope you have the same great results when you replace the oil seals. Anything else that I can help you with, just drop me a line. Take Care!
Sincerely,
--
Julio Meza 1979 264GL B27F 126K --> BW55->M46, CLS, IPD Sway, 81+ Dash, Gauges, Flat Hood & E-Codes 1979 262C B27F 161K --> Restoration Project 1984 245DL 216K --> Wifemobile / Sport Wagon
|
|
|
|
|
