My nephew Eric has an 1982 240 with a K-Jetronic fuel injected engine with 250k miles on it. He lives in Sacramento, California. It starts hard when cold but once it starts it runs o.k. after that. Haynes manual toubleshooting guide suggests checking cold start injector and thermal time switch. Sunroof with manual transmission and overdrive (not working). Also has pretty serious oil leak. I live in San Francisco Bay area and haven't gotten up to help him yet, but will. I'm currently driving a 97 VW TDI (diesel). This is my first visit to your Volvo site and it is very impressive. I have read all that I can find on your site about hard starting Volvos in cold weather. Thanks to all who have contributed. Any thoughts on Zerostart block heaters for Volvos? Am shade tree mechanic who also rides a bicycle. Preparing for the end of oil in our lifetimes. Red Zapata!

First check for air leaks in the intake system. Air leaks cause havoc on the K-Jet Systems especially when the engine is cold. Second, remove the cold start injector and see if it sprays a fine mist with the engine cold, and the starter turning. Make sure to aim the spray into a cup or can. The cold start injector should spray only when the starter is engaged and should do so for a maxium of 8-10 seconds even if the starter is kept turning for a longer period of time. If the cold start injector does not work then check the wiring. Also the Thermal Time Switch could be faulty. The TTS is the device the helps ground out the cold start injector in order to complete its electrical circuit when the engine is cold. Also check for leaks around the Air Auxillary Valve, the small cylinder like device between intake 2 & 3 (has two hoses connected to it). After all that is checked out you can clean out the CPR if the engine still runs rough until fully warmed up. Good Luck!!!

Sincerely,
--
Julio Meza

1979 264GL B27F 125K --> BW55->M46, CLS, IPD Sway, 81+ Dash, Gauges, Flat Hood & E-Codes

1979 262C B27F 160K --> Restore Project w/Possible B280F

1984 245DL 214K -->Wifemobile

"Any thoughts on Zerostart block heaters for Volvos?"
You don't need a block heater in Sacramento. Block heaters are for sub-freezing climate.

"Also has pretty serious oil leak."
If you can't see the source of the leak, try washing the engine off at a car wash.

"Sunroof with manual transmission and overdrive (not working)."
These should be covered here in the archives. Both are repairable.

"It starts hard when cold but once it starts it runs o.k. after that."
If it runs ok after starting then it is probably not the control pressure.
You can remove the cold start valve and check that it sprays when cranking.
Most likely hard starting after sitting for a long period like over night is simply the fuel system has lost pressure from a leaky injector or bad fuel accumulator. This can be verified by jumpering the pumps for a moment before starting to re-pressurize the system.

There is a good independent Volvo shop called SVS (Sacramento Volvo Service).
A good recycler is Sweden Auto Warehouse, 8516A Fruitridge Rd., 916-387-6892.
The local Pick-n-Pull has a lot of 240s.

Hello,
My 82 had a similar problem for years that turned out to be leaking injector seals. When I removed them they were rock hard and leaking badly. Check for leaks by sraying carb cleaner at each injector while the car is running. If the carb spray changes the idle it is leaking. Also check for other vacuum leaks around the block. The most common issues for the K-jets are vacuum leals and bad fuel pressure.

Mario

sounds like the control pressure is stuck high. it needs to lower when cool and rise within 3-4 minutes after starting. to confirm, you need a special fuel pressure tester to read both line and control pressure, 1 at a time. the thermal time switch and/or the cold start valve could also be at fault. might even be an old or wrong set of plugs. volvos don't like bosch platinums. good luck, chuck.

Wire harness connector falls off the thermal time switch under the 4th intake runner. Bad control pressure regulator, both very common K-jet problems. CPR is expensive and gets gunked up inside with rust, maybe repairable.

hi mr haire. im just learning, i know there is a screen in the c.p.r. but how does one repair this part? my friend told me they can be adjusted by tapping some part very carefully downward. i just bought the j-jet guage setup and will test soon. im still reading the bentleys on the subject, not exactly sure which ports to hook to. any advice will be appreciated. a rebuilt c.p.r. from r.p.r. is about 260.00$ do you have any advice on rebuilt c.p.r. thanks for any info.

You can clean out the Control Pressure Regulator to make it like new again. Just remove it from under the intake manifold/fuel distributor (easier said then done), take out the four flat head screws from the bottom-side of the CPR. Then open the CPR and you will see a couple of springs, a bi-metallic metal strip, a small metal plunger/pole, and a heating element. First thing to do is to undo the bolt holding the bi-metallic metal strip in place and move it to the side. Then with the springs, plunger, and metal strip out of the way you should see four very small flat-head screws that allow you to get to the back side of the fuel line connections. In that small space is where gunk and rust hide. Once the four small screws are off you can remove the cover, metal shims, and really get to see both of the holes that allow the fuel in and out of the CPR. Use a pin and some carb cleaner to really get those two holes clean. Once they are spot less you should be able to spray the carb cleaner through the inside holes and have it shoot out the other end. Make sure to clean the metal shims, metal cover, springs, plunger, etc... Installation is reverse of removal. Before you close up the CPR try to add 12V across the connector on the the top of the CPR to see if the heating element works. If the heating element gets hot to the touch than your ready to reinstall the CPR in the car. If not then the by cleaning the CPR the car will run better whn cold but will run to rich when hot because the heating element is not leaning out the fuel mixture. Best of Luck!!!

Sincerely,
--
Julio Meza

1979 264GL B27F 125K --> BW55->M46, CLS, IPD Sway, 81+ Dash, Gauges, Flat Hood & E-Codes

1979 262C B27F 160K --> Restore Project w/Possible B280F

1984 245DL 214K -->Wifemobile

thanks julio, sounds very doable i hope this will help. about the 12 volts how exactly is this done? there is a two spade connector as i remember it. i have a extra junkyard c.p.r. i will test this procedure on but bentleys says the 85 turbo is specific to this year. thanks

Sorry, Foster says just take the thing apart and clean the rust out. I use only junkyard units, the cost is unreasonable.
Good luck, it is probably that or the tts plug. (I have had no problems, that I can discern, with platinums and any Volvo for years).