Regarding the '80 245 DL with an M-46.

I went to the dealer and picked up a genuine Volvo clutch cable to replace the cheap piece of aftermarket junk I had on the car before.

However, before I put this one on, do any of you think I should lubricate the cable before installing it, or does it really need it? What kind of oil should I use? Finally, how should I go about pouring the oil into the cable?

Thanks as always. I just want to make sure I don't have any clutch problems for a good long while.
--
If you listen to the radio in Portland, OR, you may know me as "Portland's Favorite Soul Brother!"

I agree with Chuck, I don't think it's necessary. I think you can use the cable just as it comes.
However- I *just* put a clutch cable in the 245T, due to a VERY heavy clutch pedal. Seemed to be original, as it had the early style adjuster that threads up and down the cable sheath.
I lubed the cable with ATF that I had handy. Just a few drops at each end, and worked the cable back and forth.
My clutch feels *perfect* now, very similar to the M47 (which is still lighter in effort but sloppier in feel.)
Then a friend showed up with her "new" 90 245, 5-speed and put all our clutches to shame- hers feels so light it's like a little Japanese car.
Maybe my 87 needs a cable too... it all seems original at almost 234K miles.
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 234K, '82 245T/M46-182K, '89 244DL/AW70- 212K Not too distant past: 86 244DL 215K, 87 244DL 239K, 88 744GLE 233K, 88 244GL 147K, 91 244 183K

Dear Foof,

Good p.m. Here's a procedure for this repair:

I. To access the climate control circuit board - the heart of the unit:

(a) Remove storage tray (removal bezel around lighter [lifts off with fingers, grip on the passenger side and pull gently], two Philips head screws, and three electrical connectors to the lighter)

(b) Remove the radio (see the FAQs, insert screwdrivers into slots on either side of the radio, about 1/4-3/8", at a 45 degree angle to the face of the radio, and push gently on each screw-driver [one at a time], while pulling on radio with fingers in the cassette opening)

(c) Remove the radio housing (two T-20 screws in the roof [if I recall correctly])

(d) Remove the steel radio housing support bracket (4 hex head machine screws, 10mm, two on either side)

(e) Remove the four philips-head screws in the front of the climate control unit and gently pull the unit forward, until you can access the back of the unit.

(f) The CCU should also have two electrical connectors (one for the fan selector switch, and the other for the control functions). Remove both.

(g) Remove the climate control vacuum lines block. This is a single piece of flexible plastic, to which all vacuum hoses are molded. The hoses likely will be of different colors. To remove this connector from the back of the ccu, simply pull it gently.

(h) Remove the climate control unit from the car

(i) Remove the climate control circuit board cover (shiny metal, four metal tabs, using a small flat-blade screw-driver and a needle-nose pliers [to straighten the tabs])

(j) Remove the climate control circuit board mounting screws (four)


II. To access the printed circuit board:

(a) Turn gently the four twisted metal tabs, which secure the shiny metal inspection plate.

(b) Once the tabs are straight, lift the plate gently, with a small, flat-blade screwdriver.

(c) Remove the four screws that secure the circuit board

(d) Do not touch the ribbon connector: the board can stay attached to the rest of the CCU, while you repair the printed circuit board.

(e) Find the relay, a square, box-like device towards the edge of the circuit board

(f) find the main electrical connector - opposite where the ribbon connector is attached - which electrical connector has 12 or 14 pins.

III. Reflow the solder to the relay (four pins) & to the main electrical connector (12 or 14 pins).

To reflow the solder

(a) use an electric soldering iron, with not more than 25 watts capacity (this limits risk of burn-out).

(b) Touch the tip of the iron to the pin for 1-2 seconds.

(c) Add a small amount of ROSIN core solder (this is NOT plumber's solder, which is acid core). Rosin Core solder is the ony solder to be used on electrical/electronic work. Acid core solder should NEVER be used on electrical/electronic items.

NOTE: The break causing the problem likely is too small to be seen with the naked eye. Thus, treat all of the solder joints noted above, as if any one could be the cause of the problem.

If this does not cure the problem - assuming there is no vacuum leak - you should have the system checked for under-the-hood problems.

Hope this makes the job go more smoothly.

Yours faithfully,

spook

Thank you, Spook. Your information is incisive, detailed, and easy to understand. You have a knack for techno prosody, and you seem to enjoy it, too. Ever think about technical writing?

Best,
Foof

i've only done a couple and never have lubed them. i think there's a nylon covering around the strands that does the job. good luck, chuck.